The basis of this article (containing more than you ever wanted to know about front suspensions) was written by Don Morrill in 1971 and is presented here with many changes, updates and added sections.

Introduction

A high wear point on the Morgan, and believe it not not, there are a few, was/is the brass bushings that are pressed into the front wheel spindles with the older mild steel kingpins or the Factory's stainless steel kingpins used when with DEVOL bushes. To check for wear, jack up the front end and have someone wiggle the front wheel about the horizontal (hold the top and  bottom), and look for movement of the lower end of the spindle with respect to the lower rebound spring. Bushing wear results in a certain vagueness in steering, and a feeling of front end looseness, but otherwise is not serious except in the extreme. Wheel shake is not cured by re-bushing. Although the shake may disappear at first, when the bushings wear in the shake will return. Wheel shake is usually caused by loose damper blades or square wheels. If you want a forever front in this area, switch to Hardchrome kingpins, used with ANY bush material you choose. As of this date (09/2020) the Factory has refused to adopt Hardchromes despite their impeccable reputation and LONG history. As they have now abandonned the legendary 110 year Morgan classic completely, that is all she wrote. 

To gain familiarity with the front suspension, sketches are provided that show things ex-works. If your car has been repaired due to front end damage, a check is worth while to determine if everything is there, and properly installed. Most body shops are relaxed about keeping track of attaching hardware, so some imagination might have been exercised during assembly. Most of the suspension hardware is Whitworth and holes are sized for the English bolts (Ed. later cars '70 on are metric). If American Standard has been substituted, additional hole clearance will result.

Check for missing parts. As Mr. Morgan is not known for using two bolts where one will do, if your car is missing anything, the results will catch up. Make sure the shocks are secure at both ends, that the damper blades are intact, that chassis stays are tight, and the center pin bolt and nut are tight. Have someone rock the steering wheel about center and check for vertical motion of the steering drop arm (See Morgan Owners Manual -- the one that should come with the car) or motion of the damper blade components. Make sure the damper blade is sandwiched between chassis and metal strip but can move freely. Older (Drum Brake) Morgans do not have this aluminum spacer as shown.

The spacer is mounted on the chassis Z-section but serves the same function.

Areas That May Require Attention to Stop Vibration (revisited 2020)

There are so many things that can cause vibrattion with a Classic Morgan that we prejudice a cure if we run to the front components only in trying to determine the cause. In 25 years and with an average quyestions and reports coming in volume during that time, I have seen so many causes of this experience.  Symptoms and circumstances are of key importance when search for the reasons. When is happening, in terms of rpm and speed and gear selected?

1.  Shock absorber replacement or Adjustment

2.  Upper shock bracket replacement

3.  Damper blade adjustement or replacement

4. Front wheel bearings and Installation

5.  Kingpin and bushing replacement

6.  Cross-axle stay adjustment

7.  Wheel Cracks

8.  Wheel Balancing I  Balancing II    Balancing III

9.  Wire Wheels Need to be Trued

10. Checking the Tyres

11. Tyre Tread Patterns and Wear

12. An Unwise Modifcation (you have installed an "enhancement" that has prejudiced your front end)

13. Brake problems '

14. Faulty Ignition Timing (yes..if the ignition timing is too advnaced or retarded it can create a vibration easy mistakeable for something else)

15. Propshaft Unbalanced or Out of Phase or U-Joints Failing

16. Clutch, Gearbox or Axle Anomally

17. The Newer Morgan Silencers (post 2010) Can Cause Vibration at Certain rpm or mph

18. Steering Components

Shock absorber replacement

Use two 9/16" open end wrenches to remove the two nuts at the top of the shock (one nut is used as a jam nut).

Push shock strut into the body of the shock.

Remove the 5/8"-W nut at the bottom shock mounting stud.

Work off the shock

Access for shock replacement is by jacking up the front end and removing the wheels.

I suggest putting a light coat of chassis lube grease on the rubber fittings at the bottom of the shock so it moves easily on the mounting stud.

Replacement Shocks (Front only)
 

*N.B. You will need to change or modify the bottom bushings by drilling them out to 5/8 inch.  You can also use Energy Suspension poly urethane bushes  #9-8113  which are a 2 piece affair.

 Replacement Shocks (Rear only)
 

Webmaster N.B. I have noticed that some of the part numbers may no longer be valid. The Spax, Koni and Monroe numbers are likely current but  double check on purchase.

Lower Shocks And Brackets

Access as per Shock removal, but cross-axle must be resting on support, front wheels off the ground, to prevent the center pin from separating from the upper cross-axle. Car must not be moved with the center pin bolt removed. You can have the broken bracket welded or purchase one from Club Spares, or from Isis Imports, or from England. (Ed. Or check the list of suppliers in the Suppliers and Cross-reference article on the Morgan Web page).  

Proper Adjustment of Front Shocks Fasteners (the effect of over-tightening)
Joe Phillips from the ThamesMog site 1997

Have you just had your Kingppins done or front shockers replaced? Are you unhappy with the feel?

Look to your shocks. It is very possible the securing nuts have been over-tightened. (Alternatively, the clearance between the Kingpins and the bushes is insufficient and for that you should check the Front Suspension section.) Over zealous tightening of the shock absorber's mounting nuts (top or bottom) can ruin the ride and handling. To cure over squeezed bushes, you do not have to take the wheels off or jack the car. Very common for amateurs and non-Morgan mechanics. After having the Kingpins and bushings done the ride and feel just wasn't right. In fact it was terrible. There was no play in the KingPins or wheel bearings, yet all seemed in order.

I solved this problem by checking the rubber grommets on the mounting at the top where there are two nuts, one a lock nut. Whilst it is obviously important they are securely tightened, it is not necessary to squash the rubber grommets/bush down as far as it will go, i.e. bulging out at the sides under high pressure. The installer had done the both nuts up as tight as possible squatting the rubber grommet till the whole unit was solid. Mine were squashed so hard by the securing nut that the rubber was solid and ineffective. Mine are SPAX but this applies to other makes.
 

This can happen with shocks nuts, top and bottoms, front or back. The nuts should be tightened only to point the rubber is not crushed and/or bulging out and the shock itself can be still be turned a bit by hand. LG

It is sad to see so much basic knowledge lost in such a short time. I currently see so many owners spending huge sums to correct problems that proper maintenance or adjustment could cure more functionally in minutes. Current forums seem to have lost once-valued expertise and lore. :(  

There seems to be a new infatuation with front end "nodding" as in how much nodding is "perfect" and how much money should be invested to create the perfect nod number. (giggle) That is an easy question to answer. 1 and 1/2 front nods! Of course, over time, your front end will deteriorate..depending on your springs (main and rebound), your maintenance, your driving style, the extent of your usage, your Morgan arena/environment, your tyres, your usage and your shock type. (shrug) I have found that adjustable shocks will extend the front end life a bit...but only on occasion and with certain types of shocks.   

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