The basis of this article (containing more than you ever wanted to know about front suspensions) was written by Don Morrill in 1971 and is presented here with some changes, updates and a few added sections.

Introduction

A high wear point on the Morgan, and believe it not not, there are a few, is the brass bushings that are pressed into the front wheel spindles, and ride on vertical kingpin (center pin). To check for wear, jack up the front end and have someone wiggle the front wheel about the horizontal (hold the top and bottom), and look for movement of the lower end of the spindle with respect to the lower rebound spring. Bushing wear results in a certain vagueness in steering, and a feeling of front end looseness, but otherwise is not serious except in the extreme. Wheel shake is not cured by re-bushing. Although the shake may disappear at first, when the bushings wear in the shake will return. Wheel shake is usually caused by loose damper blades or square wheels.

To gain familiarity with the front suspension, sketches are provided that show things ex-works. If your car has been repaired due to front end damage, a check is worth while to determine if everything is there, and properly installed. Most body shops are relaxed about keeping track of attaching hardware, so some imagination might have been exercised during assembly. Most of the suspension hardware is Whitworth and holes are sized for the English bolts (Ed. later cars '70 on are metric). If American Standard has been substituted, additional hole clearance will result.

Check for missing parts. As Mr. Morgan is not known for using two bolts where one will do, if you car is missing anything, the results will catch up. Make sure the shocks are secure at both ends, that the damper blades are intact, that chassis stays are tight, and the center pin bolt and nut are tight. Have someone rock the steering wheel about center and check for vertical motion of the steering drop arm (See Morgan Owners Manual -- the one that should come with the car) or motion of the damper blade components. Make sure the damper blade is sandwiched between chassis and metal strip but can move freely. Older (Drum Brake) Morgans do not have this aluminum spacer as shown.

The spacer is mounted on the chassis Z-section but serves the same function.

Areas that may require attention
1. Shock absorber replacement
2. Upper shock bracket replacement
3. Damper blade replacement
4. Front wheel bearings
5. Kingpin and bushing replacement
6.Cross-axle stay adjustment

Brakes and steering will be considered another day.

Shock absorber replacement

Use two 9/16" open end wrenches to remove the two nuts at the top of the shock (one nut is used as a jam nut).

Push shock strut into the body of the shock.

Remove the 5/8"-W nut at the bottom shock mounting stud.

Work off the shock

Access for shock replacement is by jacking up the front end and removing the wheels.

I suggest putting a light coat of chassis lube grease on the rubber fittings at the bottom of the shock so it moves easily on the mounting stud.

Replacement Shocks (Front only)
 
 

*N.B. You will need to change or modify the bottom bushings by drilling them out to 5/8 inch.  You can also use Energy Suspension poly urethane bushes  #9-8113  which are a 2 piece affair.

 Replacement Shocks (Rear only)
 

Webmaster N.B. I have noticed that some of the part numbers may no longer be valid. The Spax, Koni and Monroe numbers are likely current but  double check on purchase.

Access as per Shock removal, but cross-axle must be resting on support, front wheels off the ground, to prevent the center pin from separating from the upper cross-axle. Car must not be moved with the center pin bolt removed. You can have the broken bracket welded or purchase one from Club Spares, or from Isis Imports, or from England. (Ed. Or check the list of suppliers in the Suppliers and Cross-reference article on the Morgan Web page).

Proper Adjustment of Front Shocks
Joe Phillips from the ThamesMog site

Have you just had your King Pins done or shock absorbers replaced?

This is a difficult one to explain but does make a difference, and takes about 10 mins. You don't have to take the wheel off or jack the car. Front Shock Absorbers - Over zealous tightening of the shock absorber top mounting nut can ruin the ride and handling. After having the King pins and bushings done the ride and feel just wasn't right. In fact it was terrible. There was no play in the KingPins or wheel bearings, all seemed in order.

I solved this problem by checking the rubber grommets on the mounting at the top where there are two nuts, one a lock nut. Whilst it is obviously important they are securely tightened, it is not necessary to squash the rubber grommets/bush down as far as it will go, i.e. bulging out at the sides under high pressure. The installer had done the both nuts up as tight as possible squatting the rubber grommet till the whole unit was solid. Mine were squashed so hard by the securing nut that the rubber was solid and ineffective. Mine are SPAX but this may apply to other makes. I do not have the installation instructions that came with the shocks as I didn't fit them originally.