partly taken from a John Higginbotham article with changes and additions by GoMoG

There is a wide variety of such lamps for fog light, driving light, LHD and RHD versions as well as different lens and reflector patterns. Many of them may look similar and may come in exactly the same metal housing.

The word "Light" is generically the photo illumination which allows you to see things. "Lamp" is a nice term for the physical bulb or assembly of bulb and housing which will produce light., "Lamp" may be a British word and "Light" may be an American word referring to the same physical part(s) and (usually) not referring to the photo illumination. So Americans refer to a "headlight" while the British refer to the same device as a "headlamp".  The British commonly refer to windows as "lights", such as front light, back light, and side lights, which is why the term "lamp" makes more sense for a light producing device to avoid confusion. In this article, the word "lamp" will mean lamp or light.

The words "fog lamp", "spot lamp", and "driving lamp" may often be used in a generic sense when referring to any lamp mounted on the front of a car, which is totally confusing and misleading. Ergo, if you see an ad saying "FT6 Fog/Spot lamp", the seller is confused and has no idea what he is selling. These words  have very different meaning referring to very specific features.


A "fog lamp" by definition throws a wide broadcast light output (flood light) which is intended to light a wide patch of road close to the car. These lamps should be mounted fairly low on the front of the car and be pointed slightly downward so they light the road full width close at hand and produce the minimal reflected glare in fog. A fog lamp may be mounted below the front bumper for best effect (although may be mounted above the bumper as well). Lenses may be clear or amber and are usually fluted to break up the beam in random directions to reduce reflected glare even more. Some countries require a rear mounted fog lamp to be used to accent your visibility for a driver following your car in dense fog, in which case the lens may be red. Use of a clear lens in a front fog lamp is legal and common only in older classic cars, but the clear lens can lead to identity confusion with other types of lamps and creates a big reflected glare.


A "spot lamp" by definition throws a near pencil beam of light to produce bright illumination on a very small area. These are commonly used in hand held lamps or a lamp mounted on the side of the windscreen which can be manually directed in any direction (to find a house number in the dark for instance).


A "driving lamp" has a slightly broader definition, most often referring to auxiliary headlights. Casual reference to any auxiliary front lamp as a driving lamp is erroneous. A fog lamp is definitely not a driving lamp. A "driving lamp" is used to see farther down the road in non-foggy conditions.  The most common form of driving lamp is the standard equipment headlights. These throw light generally forward and just a little to the sides to illuminate the road surface
farther forward and across the width of one traffic lane (or a bid wider). They have a flat beam so as not to waste light on the road surface close to the car, and not to shine upward into the eyes of oncoming drivers. They are common in LHD and RHD versions where there may be a sharp cutoff of upward light on the side toward oncoming traffic. The dip beam may be directed slightly to one side away from oncoming traffic.

An auxiliary "driving lamp" may be large or small, round or rectangular, and may have almost any mounting configuration (usually not below the bumper). They should almost always have a clear (not colored) lens, although there can be a wide variety of fluting or plain glass or a combination of flutes and plain glass in a single lamp. Driving lamps commonly have a light throw pattern similar to headlamps, although these auxillary lamps may be more concentrated in the forward direction for better illumination farther down the road and less to the sides. Driving lamps like headlights are usually mounted above the bumper to be aimed straight forward with the top of the beam perfectly level for long distance illumination. In most government jurisdictions it is required by law that driving lamps be wired to or triggered by the headlight high beam circuit, so than when you dip your headlamps for an oncoming driver the driving lamps will go out. But this provision of the law is often not enforced. Cops are usually happy if you just have at least two headlamps that actually work and will not check your wiring. 

Another form of "driving lamps" is physically similar to the description in the prior paragraph, but can have a spotlight-type pencil beam intended to shine only straight forward for the longest possible distance. This type of driving lamp is commonly called "spotlight". These often have higher light output and are usually illegal for use on public roadways. They are commonly wired to a separate switch to be used only off-road. They may be mounted above the bumper, or on the bonnet, or above the windscreen or on the roof or on a roll bar. The location is a matter of personal taste chosen for best illumination depending on the intended use. Law will commonly require these lamps to be physically covered when the car is driven on a public roadway, even when the lamp is not switched on. If you have these lamps mounted above the front bumper and not switched on, who's to notice, and you may be okay without covers. But God forbid any cop should ever catch you with these lamps switched on when on a public roadway, which could result in severe penalties (plural) including impounding of the vehicle.


Like all things for any dedicated collector of treasured automobiles
, road lamps have a lore and status pecking order that come with them, recognized only by other cognoscenti. Morgans are no different. From the Factory, different lamps were optionally over the years, though for the last two decades this has been restricted by government regulations requiring certain elements to be present. Today's Factory headlamp fare is either non-descript (for which the company must be forgiven) or tastelessly garish, an element that has increasingly crept into the Morgan market since the passing of Peter Morgan.  

Collectors can tell you which lamps were originally offered for your car from its inception, which lamps are acceptable replacements/upgrades and which bestow added status to the car and the proper place and fashion to mount them, but aesthetic appreciation is something bestowed only by the Automobiles Gods, and practicality be damned! :D The best source for original vintage lamps is eBay, but there are great risks involved and you have to know your stuff. Old lamps will often require refurbishing but the days of new old stock, hidden in some garage or retailer backroom have vanished. Lamps have become a VERY expensive aspect of Morgan car love as one is in competition with vintage collectors of every marque. The favored lamps are akin to Louis Vuitton luggage, only harder to find and more costly by the pound! But they send a message that only Others of the Faith can recognize.

Brahmin-acceptable upgrades will be from the vintage production of Lucas, Jaguar or Marchal (this last a Ferrari/Rolls auxiliary lamp option offered briefly in the 1980s) or anything lovely and vintage enough to be forgiven by strict purists. It creates another aspect of Morgan enjoyment, learning and new social contacts that crosses marque and time lines...whether your Morgan is old or new.


Many owners wire fog or spot lamps in after their car's manufacture. Aside from choosing the site of their physical placement, the wiring is quite simple. The MMC does not have special wiring variations for different options. They have a single wiring template for each model and era and merely connect the options purchased. If the pruchase of an options is not made, the wiring for it is still there. If you are lucky enough to have a Morgan that has not been undercoated with their infamous spreading black goo that covering wiring colours..they will be problem to find..either at the front or the rear. In most cases, you will even find their unconnected switch on your control panel.

Earlier cars The wiring colours you are looking for (earlier cars) is Blues with a White tracer for the fronts and Red with a Yellow tracer for the rear.

Later Cars
 The wiring colours you are looking for is Blues with a Yellow tracer for the fronts and Red with a Yellow tracer for the rear.

N.B. Consult your year and model wiring diagram if you are unsure.

Ground All   
Black for the ground if necessary as the lamps are often ground simply in attaching them to the car's metal..though I recommend attaching the ground anyway.

by Lorne Goldman
For Bumpers  

For OverRiders

WEBMASTER NOTE: I am NOT a fan of spot/fog brackets. IMHO, they clutter up the front of your gorgeous Morgan. I merely use rear mounted versions of these lamps. The only watchpoint is for the pre-Superform wing cars. The metal of the wings is less hearty and that can cause problems with the old alloy wings or, if improperly installed (aka without metal protection), with corrosion with all types of wings, alloy or steel.  However, Superform wings haveno porblmes, and proper installation with any era car can be successful. Use an anti-corrosive measure (easy to find these days at any hardware store, and for the pre-Superform cars, add a round stiffening plate of large washer to spread the load. I have installed such lamps on all my Morgans (both pre-and post- Superform cars without a problem with three Plus 8s, 25 years and 200,000+ miles.

The links above offer alternatives. 

by Lorne Goldman

It is frustrating to read some of the current arguments against DRLs. DRLs have been around since the 1970s (Scandinavian countries) and 1989 (Canada). There is no longer any question that they are a cheap way to substantially cut down on property damage, injuries and fatalities. Of course, the extent of those benefits will depend on the environment of the vehicle that uses them. Areas that have longer periods of dusk and dawn will show a greater beneficial effect but the stats show a minimum of 5.7% reduction in accidents and their severity at a minimum all the way up to 11%+. Simply apply those statistics and quantify them in terms of dollars and deaths and the arguments against this feature become pretty stupid.

As for claims of added costs, all car manufacturers state categorically that they are specious. General Motors estimated the extra cost in light bulb wear is non-existent and the new DRLs use a reduced voltage. Fuel mileage, which also reflects the environmental effect, was analyzed for the average US vehicle at $3 a year at current fuel prices. One could save 100 times that simply with better driving habits.

So what is the fuss? Morgans are small cars, low to the ground and can definitely use every visibility measure in the book to combat those elements. This one is effective and non-invasive. There are no jarringly odd and ugly "cyclops" lights to fit, or LEDs that make the car look like a refugee from Star Wars or a dinky hot rod rather than a classic vintage car.

The biggest cost factor for the manufacturer is the cost of dedicated DRLs. In this case, they are right. There are sufficient existing lights on any car to enlist in the DRL cause. The first priority is to choose the existing lights to use that have sufficient visibility to have the desired effect. No point in using side or wing lamps that can lower or negate the benefits.

DRL retro-fits for Morgans? There is no question that using head lamps produce the best effect one can manage and they are easy to re-wire. (simply add a wire to the headlamp fuses from the ignition switch). However, for those of us who are inexplicably uncomfortable with the extra annual fuel costs, something more exotic and invasive might suit

WATCHPOINT: Please understand that I have learned to avoid making Morgans more complex. After 220,000 (2012)  miles mogging, I strive in the opposite direction by simplifying (distilling) them rather than moving them in the opposite direction that newbies find so irresistible rather than simply learning how to do proper and on-going maintenance. You would be appalled at what happens after a long period of absent or improper care! The newer generation of owners fall easy prey to trying to add an expensive something which is all the rage at the moment on forums which have little mechanical ability. My Morgans are solid, comfortable and reliable..which takes minimal (necessary) sorting and tweaking for the original template. 

 However, the necessary mods are not expensive and the technology is already used in most Morgans.  For example. the Smiths instruments cars (all Morgans until 1986), use a voltage regulator that reduces the regular voltage from 13.8ish + to 10 volts and most of the distributor cars reduce the voltage to the coil. In this case, you simply have to create a reduced ignition-fed daytime power to the headlamps. 

This voltage reduction can be done with a regulator or with a series of diodes/resistors in series to a brightness you like. Diodes/resisters can be found at any electrical shop or Radio Shack..regulators of all sorts on your local eBay or Radio Shack as well. Cost with either method is a few dollars.

In most countries, the ever more complex and invasive fuel and safety regulations are optional for cars made before the specific law changed. As well, there is a new wave of legislation being passed or considered protecting NEW cars that accurately replicate classics (see the new USA legislation 2016). This allows Morgan owners the option of cherry-picking what they want. There is no question that many of the newer measures prejudice Morgans. But it also true that some are wise and can be incorporated without altering the aesthetics or personality of the cars. Sadly, since its astonishing HFS start,  the Morgan Company has never since displayed the ability to seamlessly handle and produce new technology in a way that creates reliable vehicles from their debut. Their earlier reluctance to stray from what they knew worked and their limited production numbers, made them non-ideal candidates mods. Reliability takes them time and/or owner intervention. This home truth has become much more of a factor since Peter Morgan's passing, likely because of the new culture of constant change regretfully abetted by newer after-marketeers
who promise panaceas for everything in a box. The Morgan Company, once they chose to enter this market, has no choice but to compete. (sad sigh)

Now I should get off this podium, stop trying to save your life and write something helpful for the Manual. (wryly)