The purpose of the cross-axle stays is to triangulate the cross-axle beams into a rigid structure, and thus prevent flexing during bump and rebound. The cross-axle stays are adjusted so that they are always in tension. Too little tension and the front will sag. Too much tension may snap the stay. Tension in the cross-axle stays should be adjusted before having the front end aligned, and checked after alignment.

2.   Jack on the outer end of one side SLOWLY. The cross-axle should lift simultaneously from both the inner and outer stands (see sketch).

3.   If the cross-axle lifts from the outer stand first, the cross-axle stay is too loose. Care should be taken not to jack the car too far off the stands. 1/2" to 1" should be sufficient. If the outer end is more than 1/4" off of the stand and the inner end has not lifted yet, the stay is much too loose.

4.  Tighten the cross-axle stay until the cross-axle lifts off of both stands simultaneously. The cross-axle is properly tensioned. No advantage is to be had by significantly increasing the tension.

5.  Repeat the above steps for the other side.

Adjusting Headlamps

Adjusting the headlamps on your Morgan is a relatively simple task. All you need is a screwdriver and a wall to shine the lights on.

Park the car about three feet from your garage door (or other wall) with the lights on low beam. You may need to do this at dusk or even in the dark to tell exactly where the light is shining on the wall.

Mark the outline of the beam shining on the wall with a pencil and them move the car back 25 feet from the wall. The top of the low beam should be no higher than the top of the circle on the door, and no lower than the center of the circle.

If the beam shines outside the circle, use the screwdriver to turn the adjustment screws on either side and above the headlamp housing. Turning the screws will cause the beam to move left to right, or up and down on the wall. A little experimenting will show you how to adjust the lights to fit the marks on the wall.

Once the low beams are adjusted, the high beams should be in the right spot also.

If you install halogen headlamps, you will find that the highly concentrated, white beam does an excellent job of illuminating the road at night. However, halogen lights must be adjusted more precisely, because the beam is more concentrated and there is less margin for error.

Grease Points
by Greg Kaufman of the Morganizer

Spring has arrived, finally!  And as a helpful thought when getting the Moggie ready for the first drive of the season don’t forget to lubricate those grease fittings.  And to help here is a list of them.

4 on the steering rack or steering mechanism (Tie rod ends and et al)
2 on the bottom of the front suspension
2 inboard of the rear brake drums (very sparingly please)
2 on the u-joints
2 on the pedal cluster**
1 on the spline shaft
1 on the transmission tunnel, up by the firewall**
1 on the water pump
 a  drop of oil in each door hinge, on any linkage and dab behind the knees.

Do lubricate your pedal assembly!  There are 2 fittings on it.  One is on the /brake  pedal itself and the other is on the clutch pedal shaft support all the way on the left end of the pedal assembly.  There are also two more fittings that need to be lubricated. One is located under the center of the crossmember at the base of the firewall. It must be reached from underneath the car, and lubricates the right hand end of the clutch pedal shaft.  The other is reached through a hole in the top center of the transmission cover once the upholstery is removed from the metal transmission tunnel cover.  It is forward of the access hole about 2 inches or so and is aimed up at a 45 degrees angle so that it can be reached with a grease gun through the access hole.  This lubricates the throw out bearing where it slides back and forth in the bellhousing.

A DESIGN PROBLEM FOR THE
WIPERS ON LEFT-HAND MORGANS

In the case of a right-handed drive Morgan the end of the wiper cable protrudes from its housing around the steering column and cannot be interfered with. In a left-hand drive Morgan, the cable housing and cable protrude into the upper glove compartment. At the end of the cable is a positioning spring which can easily get caught in gloves or scarves you might stuff in the compartment. The turning effect when the wipers are used binds the materiel into the spring...and forces the wiper motor to overheat and fail and that is very very expensive.

To avoid this problem...cut a small section of sufficently wide to cover the spring and the housing. Slide some small rubber washers on the housing section and slide the pipe over these washers (to reduce vibration and force the pipe back into position if moved) and then use a clip to hold the pipe and screw it into the wooden member immediately above.

THE PLUS 8 IGNITION SWITCH FOR LEFT-HAND MORGANS

Another under the dash anomoly with left-handed Morgans is the ignition setup. For example, on the Plus 8s a standard Rover ignition key setup is used. This is installed long before the bulkhead and dash on the steering column by fitting the piece around the column and then screwing in two screws from the bottom upwards to clamp it in place and then breaking these screws inside the fitting. If you ever want to remove the item...an extractor is used to remove the sheered screws and new ones are used for the re-installation.

With left-handed cars, instead of using left-hand ignition switches, Morgan uses the right hand switches upside-down as these must be installed on the other side of the column which means the screws are installed from the top downwards. After the bulkhead, dash and wiring is installed it becomes impossible to use an extractor to remove the screrws and ignition switch and it can only be replaced  "in toto" after grinding the old one off.

IGNITION SWITCHES (1970S to early 1980s)

Those running 1970's and early 80's Morgans with the Neimann ignition switch (as per p88 of the
John Worrall/Liz Turner book) may like to know that the ignition switch was fitted to both MGBs and
several cars in the Vauxhall range.
 
I thought I'd post this as the factory has run out and the factory told me that it is unlikely that Neimann will make another batch! So try your local scrapyard!
 
Regards, Arwyn