This article is not written to convince the reader of the virtues aluminum radiators. Other articles have done so already and if you are reading this you should have been convinced already. As simply put as possible, aluminum radiators dissipate heat more efficiently than traditional copper-brass radiators:

 1) Copper-brass radiators must be soldered together. Solder is a very poor thermal conductor and inhibits the ability of the fins to pull heat out of the tubes. (Although aluminum does not dissipate heat as well as copper-brass).

 2) Modern radiator designs incorporate wider tubes with smaller cross sections. This design allows for more contact area per cubic inch of coolant, and allows the radiator to cool substantially better than older designs using narrow tubes with larger cross sections.

3) Aluminum is much much (2) lighter. It is therefore a favorite of the racing community. As such, it is the materiel that aftermarket specialists have developed and experimented with and the materiel they  supply with. Regardless of the heat conductivity of other metals, aluminium is the direction the aftermarket world has traveled and consequently provides you with the cutting edge of cooling technology at a reasonable price.

I am also not trying to suggest that an aluminum radiator is a substitute for proper maintenance. Morgans are constructed in a fashion that makes the passenger compartment vulnerable to excess engine heat because of the proximity to the motor and the "funneling" of the heat through the gearbox cover. However, this heat may have important messages for you. High temperatures can indicate poor timing, too lean an air/fuel mixture, bad coolant, radiator or cooling system blockage, faulty water pump, bad combustion, poor lubrication, a lousy rad fan, a malfunctioning sensor, a bad thermostat, an imprudent camshaft selection and many other items that should be looked into.

Heating issues are generally a higher priority with Plus 8s. The engine is bigger and puts out more horsepower and more heat and the model has earned an undeserved reputation for chronic over-heating. generally the cause is one of those mentioned above. If we took the simple step of insulating the firewall and gearbox cover so that we could ignore the engine heat, that reputation would largely disappear leaving more prematurely destroyed engines in its place.

There are those of us, however, because of a hotter climate, a yen for racing or an upgraded engine who could use the extra cooling properties of an aluminum radiator.

I originally purchased a GRIFFIN radiator. They had an excellent reputation for many years...but read on...

The procedure is complex..you call up GRIFFIN (they are in South Carolina) and deal with one of their representatives and receive a order number. Then you send your old radiator to them. This can be a problem as you doesn't want to part with the old radiator and it increases the price by the shipping costs there and return (another $200). On the other hand, the possibility of mistakes DO disappear with your old rad as a model..

After your old radiator arrives, you speak with a technical person at GRIFFIN and indicate your motor, its characteristics and horsepower. This allows him to properly order the amount of tubing (cooling ability) you will need. I asked for mine to be shaped exactly like my old rad saving for it to be a 1/4 inch less deep to allow for an easier installation for the high powered rad fan I have. They also WOULD NOT  drill holes to provide for the Otter rad fan switch. They simply did not trust it. Instead they gave me a standard 22 mm threaded hole in the same place and I simply fitted the standard Rover rad fan switch. You can also use a BMW (14mm)

Parts nos.

61311364272/82  = 82C switch (gold body and white top)

61311364272/86  = 86C switch (gold body and white top)

61311364272     = 91C switch (gold body and white top)

61311364273     = 99C switch (gold body and red top)

With Griffin,  expect a five week turn around (less for your old radiator they use a template). From 1996-2000, surprisingly, at least for those on the North American continent, the price for the Griffin rad itself was cheaper than a new Morgan radiator at $550 US when Morgan radiators ranged from 320 pounds ($600US) for a 4/4, to 450 pounds ($812US) for an EFI Plus 8 EFI rad.  Of course, to all of these prices you must add transport, taxes etc.

HOWEVER, sadly in 2000, Griffin almost doubled their prices on Morgan  rads...amongst others they make. They are now sold at $1000 to which you still have to add the transport of your old radiator for a model. Upon inquiry, I was told that radiator has not been improved or otherwise changed outside of price.
 

LUCKILY, there is a fine competitor for Griffin with a great reputation, going by the name of Ron Davis Racing Products. RDRP who knows Morgan rads better than any and has done many now being a favorite of eMog, the huge Morgan internet discussion group. The joints on the rad are welded very very well, there are more fins and rows and I found the cooling ability of my Ron Davis rad better than my Griffin. They can also flush mount a high powered fan if you so choose. The rads are molded to match the look and style of a Morgan radiator. It is best to send them your old rad.

The service is very good and the prices are honest. Expect to save 30-40% on a Griffin package after all is factored in. Actually, I think their work at the joints is better than Griffin who has been known to use epoxy at the joints. They also will not use a plug-in Otter swtich but can offer your a range of rad fan switches or make the threaded fitting you wish. (Plus 8ers see the BMW above)
 

For those of us in the United Kingdom, Peter Mulberry Fabrications (aka MulFab), who has a super reputation serving the Morgan racing community, also makes and fits an elongated aluminum rad for Plus 8s, Plus 4s and 4/4s. Pter takes advanatge of the space below by elongating the rad allowing for a bigger core and far better cooling. There is a choice of rads..for different applications and cooling needs. Peter always has an open door!

RESULTS

Now for the results of the aluminum rads I have tried...my car is 5C degrees cooler under normal driving conditions and 9C cooler under stress conditions. The time it takes to cool from 108C to 88C is approximately 5 minutes at 60 mph. The Ron Davis Rad is 3C cooler under all conditions. (tested on the same day, same car, same coolant on the same road).

MULFAB, RON DAVIS RACING PRODUCTS  and GRIFFIN have web sites which are linked to the GoMoG site under PARTS & SERVICES DIRECTORY,  COOLING