Obviously, EFI Morgans have problems with servicing long term that the carb'ed models do not have. The big question for an EFI owner is what to do about it.
Stockpiling spares is a time honored pastime of
anyone with a car they love and want to keep
on the road. Morgan owners are often in
the forefront of that fox hunt so why
not the EFI crew!

When it comes to an EFI engine
and its future is best to know
what your local emission laws are.
After that, decide on what will suit in the
long term and then make your shopping
list. Normally, if you are lucky, the earlier
the model year, the less stringent the emissions
laws. Indeed some of the earliest EFI Morgan are
legal even after a switch to carbs though they will suffer a
big power loss unless a very smart carb choice is made.

If you want to maintain the original system's integrity, here is a very a short summary guideline for Plus 8's;


Of the 80,000 odd original flapper EFI and analogue ECUs (1984-1988), none can be had now. However, the ECU and airflow meter CAN be repaired (if you have the right data), by a good radio and television repair shop. Though Land Rover and all after market companies in the UK report the injectors as no longer available in the UK and charge a huge price for reconditioned sets, they can be found NEW on this side of the pond as Bosch, Beck Arnley and Echlin still make them and distribute them here!

Another option is switching to a hot wire system...which means airflow meter, intake manifold, injectors, ECU with chip and wiring, sensors for about 2000 pounds uninstalled.

For other types of aftermarket EFIs, most of these have some drawbacks or are very expensive. Holly makes a decent and simple little EFI that fits any year Morgan without emission regs to deal with. (just please avoid their 390 cfm carburetor).

In the case of most of the analogue and many of the digital ECUs, repairs are complicated by the fact that Lucas would pour a liter of glue into the Land Rover/Rover ECU box after assembly "to cut down on vibration" problems. It can almost fill the box and covers the circuitry. The repairer must find the proper solvent for this glue or work around it.


The hotwire systems are less repairable than the analogue...but reconditioned systems (with air flow meters) can still be sourced for 1200 pounds. To put this in perspective, a fully rebuilt guaranteed "long" 3.5 V8  is priced at 1150 pounds and the same in a 3.9 is 1800 pounds. You will do much better than this with some poking about. The question then is whether it works well and whether the chipping is appropriate. New performance chipping goes for about for 200-300 pounds.  The hotwire system is the best buy NOW as they are no longer in production and going out of style but are still plentiful in scrap yards. BTW, never never trade your original system. System analysis units or their knockoffs are fairly common for the hotwire EFIs and there are other
testing procedures you can use.

In the US, most of the 27743 hotwire V8s
are still on the road but they will not be a
straight fit for a standard Morgan Plus 8..
outside of the Canadian units. Here
the price of reconditioned parts is
cheaper than the UK at 1527 US.
Again you can do much much better
than that if you poke around now. As
well, if the experience with these is
similar to the early Bosch/Lucas system,
this stuff will disappear with in 4-5 years.

THE U.S. 4.0s

I would imagine ALL of the the 27719 NAS 4.0s are still rolling but they will not suit a standard Plus 8 unless you are thinking of buying the whole fueling system from the US "Federal" plenum through ECUs and that will run into many thousands. If you have a very new Morgan,...gather info and documentation about it NOW, keep your dealer's Testbook or Rovercom print outs and be patient...4-5 years from now will be the time to buy...problem here will be how to deal with it without a analytical unit such as Testbook or Rovercom.


Once you get a replacement system...install it. (Not very difficult, 2 plugs, 2 bolts, 2 hoses and 3 screws for the ECU and the Airflow meter). First do the airflow meter, try it out and adjust it and then install the ECU and run both and, if there are no problems, store them carefully until you need them. Don't wrap them in non-breathing plastic or put them in a humid place...if condensation forms of a long period the units will deteriorate. It is also a good idea to have a potentiometer and some of the more important sensors. (This is beginning to sound like Star Wars). If you have known working parts it takes much less time to isolate your problem. If you start haphazardly installing never tried parts (even if they are NEW!!) you never know what is really happening.

Do not worry about the engine itself. With good maintenance and quality part replacement, the block and even the heads are good for 200,000 miles unless there is a major disaster of some sort. Even after this mileage, the engine can be remachined and resleeved and be good for another 200,000 miles. The EFI fueling system's parts availability and expensive analytic equipment are its weak point..