by John H. Sheally II and Lorne Goldman

If you are lucky enough not to have one of the post-1997 heated windscreens, your windscreen is quite simple to replace. This is a godsend as Morgan windscreens, being flat glass, break often and pit constantly requiring replacement if you want a clear view. (any glass with even a tiny bit of curvature is MUCH stronger and pit resistant. A regular glass place (a non-auto glass place) is the best. They will always have shatter-proof glass one hand of the same or near-same thickness. They use it for cabinet windows and coffee-tables. They also have considerably more experience in cutting flat glass to size than any autoglass place fitting pre-made stuff.  

Go to the glass shop and tell them you would like a new windscreen cut from a piece of "school bus" glass. School bus glass is a standard stock item for glass cutters. You can also have a choice of tinted glass or tinted with shading towards the top//a MUCH better alternative (as well as aesthetically pleasing) than ugly sun visors.

WATCHPOINT: Here's a head's up. They will charge you for a standard sized sheet of the relevant glass. However, the windscreen needs only 1/2 of that stock piece and they will keep the rest. If you are near home rather than mogging far away, after they give you a quote, ask how much extra it will be to cut a second windscreen from the same piece. This quite often catches them unaware and though they will charge you a small additional fee to cut the second piece, you still come out ahead with a spare windscreen for the next time.

are normally very inexpensive (I paid the equivalent of 75 US for the last one in the USA) or 100£ in the UK at a Morgan dealer. Many UK dealers will keep exchange windscreens on hand for pre-1997 Morgan classics. Takes only a few minutes to swap as they are already fit into a frame.  On the other hand, if the glass must be cut and fit into the cleaned windscreen frame, expect a 60-90 minute wait.  However, some Morgan dealers carry pre-fitted windscreens, frame and all. Brands Hatch -for example is one of these.  Merely minutes for a swap.

WATCHPOINT 2: Many of these screens are fit with the installation of a small rubber or cloth "gasket" that goes around the glass as it slots into the frame. All glass cutters will be able to manage this and have something that will suffice on hand. However, silicone (RTV) will always be necessary and can do the trick with or without that gasket.
I change my windscreens as needed (when mogging) or every 2-3 years as a regular maintenance thing as all flat glass screens become pitted over time. My record between two Morgans was 5 windscreens in a 12-month period! 

WATCHPOINT 3: The Morgan windscreens are held by 3 screws on each side. The lengths are different  and must get the right length in the right hole or the longer ones will go through the windscreen frame touch and cause the windscreen to crack.

by Fred Sisson from the eMOG archives

For some reason the grit in Georgia eats glass surface and so I have replaced a few windscreen glasses too. Even have used tinted glass.  It is a cheap, easy job.

I like the silicone replacement method but buy the proper tools to remove glued-in glass from the frame next time. I use a combination of home-bent knife blades and old banjo strings to remove the glass. Even then it is not that easy, BUT... easier than removing some of the original glasses. Be careful about bending the frame when removing the glass  I find it easiest to do a simple one-finger cleanup while the silicone is wet..  then I do the final cleanup after it is dry, using razor blades to trim the excess and clean the glass.

MOST IMPORTANT... Just about anyone who has replaced a few windscreens  had broken one at sometime because of the screws holding the screen to the frame or the screws holding the little angle brackets (that hold the frame  together).. contacting the glass. Sometimes they crack a few days later...
MAKE SURE the screws are short enough that they don't contact the edge of the glass!

I also like to shape my own glass for the Brooklands Aeroscreens. I have four different shapes sitting on the shelf at the moment.. Since I am not worried about them being watertight... I only use three inch long squirts of silicone to hold the glass ('cuz I know I am going to get bored with them in a year or so...).

by Phil Macwhirter from the eMOG archives

It might only be a morgan windscreen but it can be pretty difficult to get the screen back into the frame, particularly if your rubber or glass is a bit thicker than it should be. So, what I do with the rubber (which holds the screen into the frame) is throw it away.

The best bet there is to use NEUTRAL cure silicone. Don't use acetic cure as it will eat the lamination in the glass, assuming it is laminated & not toughened.  (As a building contractor I see the results of the wrong silicone all the time, it eats the back off mirrors & taints special metallic coatings as well ). The use of silicone ensures that there is little pressure or stress on the glass/frame assembly.

After removing screen frame from car, pull it all apart, very easy, connections at points where bottom rail joins side / top. & clean all components. Then 50% fill the rebate of the metal frame with silicone.

Fit the glass, & assemble, putting the screws back in to the frame. Then start to wipe off the excess silicone which will ooze out, using turpentine as a solvent. A real messy job, use doctors latex gloves & have plenty of newspaper &  rags on hand. Eventually you will get the whole lot clean and if required can use a razor blade when silicone is dry for final trim up.

BTW, I've heard of many broken windscreens trying to use the rubber sections. The silicone method uses no force or strain on anything ( except you as you get the silicone off everything.) I've done a few screens like this & would not do it any other way.

If you need some more info on this, drop me a line in Melbourne, Australia at

WINDSCREEN RUBBERS (the front molding)
by Lorne Goldman at the eMOG PUB

There are two types of Morgan windscreen rubber and they go different ways. The earlier rubber is made to fold back under and, indeed, was made to accommodate folding windscreens. It is flat and longer.  The later rubber has been used from late 1969 on all cars (but the 4/4s) and from 1977 with the 4/4s as well, until today. ALL Plus 8s, saving the proto-type, had the newer rubber. It is the shorter and mildly arched and to turn it under is not advisable. If you attempt it, it will take much effort to fold the rubber under and require more than one person (3?) to refit the screen and force it into position. ;)

Of course, if folding windscreens are retro-fitted, the cars switch to the earlier version.

Both types of rubber are available, you must ask for the right one, innie or outie. (smile)

WINDSCREENS HEATED (Sourcing Replacements) January, 2011 (updated April 2014)
In 1997, Morgan decided to recess the dashand lengthen the doors, hoping to create more tummy room for newer owners. This eliminated the space for the air vents that were used to demist the windscreen and necessitated made-for-Morgan heated windscreens (while simultaneously decreasing the precious footwell space with a easier to make gearbox cover, another Steve Morris innovation). Though these do a quick and often superior job in demisting the windscreen, they can only be sourced from the MMC. The price will be approximately 1700£ installed..depending on what country you live. They will provide only the entire windscreen package or glass and frame. The screens are ususally back-ordered..and waits can be months. If you crack one while traveling, you must make do as best you can or replace it with a non-heated screen (see above) and buy an inexpensive fan demister or RAINEX

There have been complaints that the inside of the unheated windscreen can "speckle up" with drops when driving with the top down in the rain. Carry a shammy with you.  

There has been a rash of unexplained cracking windscreens since late 2009 AND the CX cars (2019 - on). Owners would open their garages in the morning to find their windscreens cracked! Though some of these claims were originally settled by the company under warranty when they first began, the Factory very quickly transferred these decisions to another and dealers were subsequently instructed to refuse the owner claims and refer them to their car insurer. But irregardless of who pays, a backlog for heated windscreens quickly grew to three months and more. Happily, the cause has recently been determined and a cure has been found (from the assurances of the MMC to its dealers). 

The 4/4 Sport  use different windscreen pillars from other classics as it has the older 9 stud hood. The pillars curve slightly to accommodate the width and type of screen. Sadly, the newer version of this part for these cars was made with the curvature section too thin (unlike the older versions) allowing unfortunate flexing and acting as pressure springs on the screen when they are installed. It was this that is reported to inevitably cause the cracking. (However, considering the many warranty refusals, it is not expected that this will be officially acknowledged at this point.)  


The newer MMC hoods dubious copies of the Steve Simmonds hood, have NOT stood the test of time.  

1. They do not  fold up and fit into the rear compartment as these hoods did for 50+ years
2. They prejudice  the sublime (design-patented) lines of the car by added an unsightly "hump" at the top rear of the car.
3. The newer side screens cannot be fit into the car, requiring them to be attached over the spare wheel.
4. They leak, something the MMC had designed out with skill and experience by the time the newer hoods were adopted.
5. The newer hoods take LONGER to put up in a pinch than the older hoods...something that becomes key if one mogs enough.
6.  They stretch, like all hoods.
7.  They put an added stain on the windscreen which, along with the cheaper windscreen supports adopted and the weakened corners of the wooden structure accommodating the over-wide long doors, causes the flat glass to crack. (These are not my comments but those of experts, MMC and aftermarket.)
8. They are absurdly expensive and VERY hard to source in sharp contrast to the earlier screen which can be fashion ANYWHERE.

Supposedly,  replacement pillars, stronger and thicker at the curve, have now been made and this has (hopefully) resolved the problem (though the aesthetics have not improved). Replacement screens should now delivered with these new pillars. Make sure they are included with your replacement when your screen cracks or it will happen again! Those who have already had to replace their screen (s) and did not have the pillars changed be warned. These issues also vary with the other factors and we can expect them to re-appear with model changes.   



There are three types of car warranties. 

The first is established by Law called and called the Manufacturer's Warranty. It requires the manufacturer to warrant the construction and components of their vehicles for a minimum period. Claims may be made against the manufacturer directly or through any of its agents/dealers. This warranty also covers "latent defects" or defects that were not be apparent at the time of purchase. The terms of this warranty are set by the Legislature and/or international agreements. For the UK see HERE.

Manufacturers' Warranty is not simply established by specific National and International legislation, it is also the part of the civil and case law in every country. The specific law does NOT limit the extent and duration of buyer protection under these latter provisions. After the time indicated by Law, there remains a liability that can still be established if sufficient proof of the defect can be made and it violates norms and common usage. 

This second type warranty is negotiated and established by contract with the Dealer. It covers certain specified items and areas for a designated period agreed to in the signed contract. It will vary from contract to contract and is exigible against the signing dealer only. It can also extend the protection of the Manufacturer's Warranty for an agreed to period. However, in this case only the signatory and not the Manufacturer is liable during that period.

This warranty is purchased on the open market. It is normally, but not exclusively, engaged as an anciliary to a second hand purchase. It bears all the limitations and risks one has with a Dealer's Warranty, save the fact that it is not with a specific dealer.

There is a codicil to the above imposed by your own auto insurer. This is a strict engagement on your part to provide all materiel facts to them when applying for coverage and when making a claim. Failure to do so is a violation of the policy AND the law of the land. If it is discovered that a claim has been made for a loss caused by another's fault, and this was not revealed on making the claim then the consequences can be extremely serious, not simply in the disposition of the claim, but for the insured's ability to obtain any insurance. For details, consult your insurance agent or the national organization that assists insurance consumers. 


For those of us with a difficult access to a Morgan Agent, you will find the the early Volkswagon Beetle wiper blades work fine with a Morgan or the earlier Land Rover blade rubbers can be used as well.. By the way, for the purists, there are three sizes of Morgan wiper blades (regulars are 6 Inches and four-seater have a 7" length windscreen.

You can also simply replace the rubber only. Use silicone to glue-in new rubber for the wiper blades. Two dollars gets you new refills for modern wipers - long enough to do three-four Mog blades. The new blades let the rubber do the flopping rather than the whole blade.. and they work a LOT better than original. (keep the new glass clean..). If your wiper slows down, bend the arm to lessen the force it is p[ushing the blade onto the screen