| WATCHPOINT: (Webmaster)This
area should not be touched until it is confirmed that the problem one
is trying to resolve is NOT the more common issue of a widened channel
at the centre of the rack. Improper adjustment of either of these racks
can quickly ruin a rack. This occurs most often with people who people
who try to adjust an already perfectly adjusted unit. |
The following procedure should be used to adjust the steering rack. There is no specified torque setting for the adjustment locknut and the manufacturers specify that it should be tightened “sufficiently to lock the adjuster in place”.
1. Thoroughly clean the area around the adjustment assembly.
2. Remove the locknut, and remove and discard the lock washer.
3. If the rack has a significant mileage, unscrew the adjuster and remove it, together with the nylon follower and spring.
4. Check that the nylon follower is free to move within the bore of the adjuster, and that it is not damaged or worn. If it is, replace it.
5. Replace the nylon follower in the groove at the rear of the rack, followed by the spring and adjuster.
6. Gently screw in the adjuster until it bottoms as it makes contact with the rack, and then unscrew it ¼ turn.
7. Place a new lock washer over the adjuster, with the internal tongue engaged in the rebate on the side of the adjuster, and the concave side down.
8. Hold the lock washer and do up the locknut finger tight. Make sure that the adjuster does not move.
9. Bend the outer tab of the lock washer that is aligned with the gap at the front surface of the rack towards the rack housing, so that it that locks the adjuster to the rack body.
10. Tighten the locknut
sufficiently to lock the adjuster in place, and bend one of the tabs on the
lock washer away from the rack housing and over a flat on the nut.
| Revisited December 2021. The approved lubricant (which was used in manufacture but is not key) is BP Energrease
FG 00-EP since it is a compatible with the application and gaiter material. By 2013 it was no longer available.
Alternatives below. Mobil Mobilux 2 SKF Alfalub LGMT Shell Alvania R2 or G2 Esso Beacon 2 |
Steering Rack FillingOA super easy tasks and one does not need much. Jack the front of the car on one side to tilt the car. Remove the higher end cone by removing the metal clip or tie-wrap gaiter. Turn the steering wheel toward the raised in to recess the pinion. Fill the cone with the stuff of your choice. Then replace to the right depth on the rack and spilling as little as possible. If the rack has not been so filled for some time, I repeat the process, filling the cone gaiter on the other side. The obvious goal (which amateurs are known to ignore) is to keep the innards of the pinion section well coated for easy movement and to prevent rust. This is a characteristic of both R&Ps systems used on Morgan trads.
Morgan Steering Rack Types
The Morgan steering
racks were/are produced by;
| 1983 to 2006 | 2006 to 2019 |
| Jack Knight Engineering (UK) | Quaife Engineering (UK) |
| No longer in business. However, these racks are very simple and most machinists or steering rack specialist can repair and deal with them. However, be very wary as there is amateur advice from moggers being published worldwide that can be dangerous. | Quaife told me that they will not
sell Morgan rack direct to the public see WATCHPOINT BELOW This may hopefully change as the part is no longer in used in current production. |
| WATCHPOINT QUAIFE and JACK KNIGHT: Recently
(December 2021) Two owners with Quaife R&P steering units reported
that they have experienced a mysterious "clunk" from their systems. I
have investigated and find that many others have noticed it as well,
both Quaife and Jack Knight rack users. This was apparently discovered by one of them (with a 2006 Roadster) some time ago.
No
explanation for his silence was given but
he never before mentioned on his forum or in any manner advised the
community. Anything involving steering, tyres and/or brakes,
deeply concerns me (December 2021). It seems that
all Morgan Trad racks (the Quaife was merely copied from the Jack
Knight affair I presume they were given. Morgan, at the time, had no one in parts sourcing working in autocad.) AFAIK, the cause has never been publicly discussed or addressed correctly. I have contacted Quaife (who infomed me they cannot help as direct support is prohibited by their contract with the MMC. I have heard nothing from the MMC as yet. The feedback now is coming from steering experts proficient with the cars and other owners and other rack manufacturers. As far as I can ascertain, the sequence with all R&Ps is as follows: 1. The cars arrive new but rack centre wear begins immediately. 2. At a relatively low mileage. the wear at the centre of the rack has widened the channel enough so an up and down movement appears which gets ever worse. It is incremental of course and most owners do not notice it. 3. When they do, they search for anything to stop it be it supper complex and costly Suplex, or dampening arms, softer main springs, cut down or progressive rebounds..the list is endless. But I have found that other rack manufacturers, (all of them) have r&p designs that prevent this wear or they use a mildly flexible bushes to prevent wear damaging the channel. Some even mount the rack on mildly flexible fittiings (Morgan uses cast fittings that have nop flexibility. ) |