| WATCHPOINT: (Webmaster)This
area should not be touched until it is confirmed that the problem one
is trying to resolve is NOT the more common issue of a widened channel
at the centre of the rack. Improper adjustment of either of these racks
can quickly ruin a rack. This occurs most often with people who people
who try to adjust an already perfectly adjusted unit. |
The following procedure should be used to adjust the steering rack. There is no specified torque setting for the adjustment locknut and the manufacturers specify that it should be tightened “sufficiently to lock the adjuster in place”.
1. Thoroughly clean the area around the adjustment assembly.
2. Remove the locknut, and remove and discard the lock washer.
3. If the rack has a significant mileage, unscrew the adjuster and remove it, together with the nylon follower and spring.
4. Check that the nylon follower is free to move within the bore of the adjuster, and that it is not damaged or worn. If it is, replace it.
5. Replace the nylon follower in the groove at the rear of the rack, followed by the spring and adjuster.
6. Gently screw in the adjuster until it bottoms as it makes contact with the rack, and then unscrew it ¼ turn.
7. Place a new lock washer over the adjuster, with the internal tongue engaged in the rebate on the side of the adjuster, and the concave side down.
8. Hold the lock washer and do up the locknut finger tight. Make sure that the adjuster does not move.
9. Bend the outer tab of the lock washer that is aligned with the gap at the front surface of the rack towards the rack housing, so that it that locks the adjuster to the rack body.
10. Tighten the locknut
sufficiently to lock the adjuster in place, and bend one of the tabs on the
lock washer away from the rack housing and over a flat on the nut.
| Revisited December 2021. The approved lubricant (which was used in manufacture but is not key) is BP Energrease
FG 00-EP since it is a compatible with the application and gaiter material. By 2013 it was no longer available.
Alternatives below. One
does not need much. I use a end gaiter full. I undo the clip holding
the gaiter, fill it and replace it trying not to spill a minimum on the
floor. If the rack has not been so treated for some time, I repeat with
the other end gaiter. The obvious goal (which amateurs are known to
ignore) is to keep the innards of the pinion section well coated for easy movement and to prevent rust. This is a characteristic of both R&Ps systems used on Morgan Classics. Mobil Mobilux 2 SKF Alfalub LGMT Shell Alvania R2 or G2 Esso Beacon 2
|
Morgan Steering Rack Types
The Morgan steering
racks are produced by;
| 1983 to 1996 | 1996 to end of the classic Morgans |
| Jack Knight Engineering (UK) | Quaife Engineering (UK) |
| will repair
and sell Morgan racks direct to the public. |
will not
sell Morgan rack direct to the public see WATCHPOINT BELOW |
| WATCHPOINT QUAIFE: Recently
(December 2021) Two owners with Quaife R&P steering units report
that they have experienced a mysterious "clunk" from their systems. This was apparently discovered by one of them (with a 2006) some time ago
but never mentioned on his forum or in any other form of post. AFAIK, the cause has never been tracked down or resolved. No
explanation for his silence was given. Forgive me for noting here again that
between your tyres, brakes and steering system, our lifes and that of
others is held. I have heard nothing to date (I do not track post 2004 Classic Morgans as closely as pre-2004 as noted on this Manual's front page.) However, my concern will have me use my contacts for research and subsequently report if I can find anything. |