1. First undue 3 clips which hold on stainless snorkel on the right side of the engine and remove the snorkel.
2.. Central to the bonnet are 2 large diameter jubilee clips, loosen these ....(there is a sensor probe residing in the middle.
3. On the left hand side 2 clips hold the feed tube, unclip these. These are next to the heater insulation box and more or less central to the bonnet halfs. There is an O ring there as well.
4. The stainless filter tube housing can now be persuaded off the 2 grommets at the bottom base and slid past the grommets at the right side vertical. This now allows the filter tube housing to turn to a friendly position and allows the filter to be removed. The tube is now in a position that allows the air filter to be removed without obstruction.
5. There is a center nut and flat cover that holds the filter in place, remove this and replace filter with OE or K&N.
Reverse the sequence for reinstallation.
K&N Filters (send in yours!)Lorne,
The K & N part number that I used is E-0890 , which provides a good fit .
71 +8 ( R7440)
K & N air filter for the 2000 T16 +4 is part number K/NE-2360
K&N for UK 1600 CVH is K&N 56-9017
A crankcase breather adapator is available, can't find the part no. This is a plate with a short tube on it which fits between the upper and lower plates on the air filter. I found it contaminated the filter and would
reccommend either fittng an adaptor to the bottom plate of the filter or, as I did, fitting a vented oil catch bottle.
UK 98 +8 4.6: K&N Filtercharger, part no. E-2350.
|WATCHPOINT: Achim makes a big mistake here, one I often see in Plus 8 EFI crowd, (the Hotwire and GEM's variants) so
he should be forgiven. Morgan dealers stilll recommend the K&N
E2350 and E2345. The story is simple and sad. When LR changed the
filter holder from the black plastic football helmet thingie to the
trumpet of the Hotwire and GEMS. (pictured the left) The Flapper holder took in air from the side, which merely requires one to rotate the filter a bit every year. No problem.
However, (look here) when LR and Morgan switched to the trumpet air filter holder, the use of the same K&N lilters became an air block. Dealers do not dyno-test their recommendations but I often do.
A decade ago, I was happily directed by the MMC Parts Department (thank you Mark!) to another bit of shiny metal.a polished stainless trumpet rather than the LR drab black!! I swapped it into my car and put in the guilty filters from the old holder. Only a couple of suspicious weeks later, on a rolling road dyno, I found that my bhp and torque curve had not only changed, their maximums had fallen! It was the effect of the air block I had unwittingly created. You see with the Flapper air filter holder, there was a beneficial effect from the dealer recommended fliter but on with the "trumpet" the same filters were a disaster! I calculated the K&N and stock filter surface area, and matched it with another K&N (pictured with the K&N filter calculation program on their site..rathert han being closed, the top is a filter as well. One can increase the filtering surface even more by using an inverted filter.
Sadly, many owners unquestioningly adopt filters or air conduits without testing them. Manufacturers at the Land Rover level do not adopt filter holders and air conduits whimsically. They are tested and chosen to provide a specific desirable performance. Change the conduit and an owner strays from that, changing and often prejudicing performance. In the case, of the Hotwires (3.9 and the MMC 4.6s), they make a too thin mixture even thinner, something that should NOT be done without PROPERLY re-chipping (a better fuel map). Do not be beguiled by a more aggressive sound.
In sum, non-stock air filter configurations are a sad fad. Smart road-going owners should not stray too far from the set-up the cars came with. That is something that is good for racers who DO dyno their changes and use their cars in very different way than we do.