Fuel Filter

I think the fuel filter is worth mentioning here as a fuel injection component mainly because clean fuel is extremely important to a fuel injection system. Dirty fuel can lead to clogged injectors and all kinds of headaches.

The L-Jetronic and Hotwire fuel filter is mounted normally in the fuel line just upstream of the pump, i.e. the fuel flows through the filter before it flows through the pump. (SADLY, THIS IS NOT THE CASE WITH MORGANS). Ideally, a filter is needed before the pump not only to make sure that the pump gets clean fuel but because a filter on the pressure side can be dangerous. If the filter were to become clogged and fuel flow was significantly restricted, theoretically fuel pressure could build to dangerous levels and rupture fuel lines, causing gas leaks and possible fire hazards. In practice, this probably wouldn't happen as the pressure limiter in the fuel pump would prevent it, but engineers normally don't like to tempt fate and it's considered bad practice to put a fuel filter on the pressure side of the system. For this reason, it is even more important to change a Morgan filter frequently.

The filter is a somewhat large rectangular plastic box with a filter element designed to catch even very small particles. There is a paper filter element and immediately after that is a strainer. Charles O. Probst, in his Bosch fuel injection book, mentions that the paper filter has a medium pore size of 10 micrometers.

The filters have to be replaced every so often. I change mine every 10-15k miles, You can also know when you have to replace it by how the car starts jerking at high rpm, meaning fuel starvation due to a clogged filter. Of course, other things can cause those symptoms, but a clogged filter is always a possibility.

Fuel Pump Watchpoint

Owners of Morgans using the Hotwire and L-Jetronic fuel systems (Plus 8s and Plus 4s from the mid-1980s top the late 1990s) must remember never to run the fuel pump dry. Try not to run out of gas and please don't "bench test" fuel pumps. It is the fuel that cools and lubricates the pump; if they are run dry, they will overheat and become damaged very quickly.

Even running low on fuel may cause accelerated pump wear, since the pickup tube can occasionally suck air.

Note on High Flow Air Filters for post-1991
by Chris Crane of Rpi

It would be good for the MMC to advise owners not to fit a free flow filter on 14CUX (Hotwire versions from 1991 to 1999) as the mid-range high-load fuel map area is already very weak and this would only exaggerate the problem..unless the engine has been fit with a much better/wiser fuel map. An upgrade will produce more power, better mileage and avoid the problem of over-lean fueling. 

Considering exhaust systems though the standard non-free flow (cat) ones inhibit the engine's ability to breath to such an extent that proportionally, masses of mid-range engine torque is lost. This issue is apparent across the board.

Getting much more from modern Morgans is not difficult when you begin to understand the underlying issues.

Adjusting the MAF of a Hotwire System (from the internet)

Regarding the air flow meters used on the 13CU, 14CU and 14CUX: These Hitachi made AFMs are labeled as 3AM or 5AM and are completely interchangeable so long as they came off a Land Rover. They are adjustable for idle mixture only. The idle mixture adjustment feature has no bearing on air mass measurement.

The engine actually does not have to be warm to make the idle mixture adjustment. However warming the engine is part of the procedure for checking the output of the mass sensor. I would not worry about the mass sensor too much because these MAFS (Hotwires)  rarely fail (no moving parts). You can also clean the hotwire with a quick blast of electronics cleaner.

It is easy to adjust the idle mixture: Turn the ignition to ON, but do not start the engine. Leave the connector on the AFM and pull back the rubber boot so you can see the wires(just like the picture on the far right in the first post of this thread). Set your volt meter to DC volts and put the probes on the two outside wires(just like the picture on the far right in the first post of this thread). These AFMs on NAS engines were set at the factory to ~2.0 volts. Most non-NAS engines had this AFM set at ~1.0 volts.
RPI recommends between 1.0 - 1.5.


If you want your engine to idle better click here. You can also use an exhaust pipe sniffer to fine tune the CO content if you are so inclined.

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