Some Good 4/4 Upgrades

Many parts used on GT models can be used as simple bolt-on mods with the 1500 engine.


Try the Weber 28/36 DCD carb.


To release the extra power in this engine the camshaft should be uprated, the only problem being that to do this you must remove the engine! Ford's BLF 22 or BCF 2 is the ideal solution.


To keep the engine cooler, install performance exhaust system available through most Morgan Agents.


Install a K&N washable air filter and a gas flowed head.

This should give you around 110 hp.

by Keith Elliot

I fitted a Facet electric fuel pump which I  wired it up as described by John Wright in the November 1999 edition of Miscellany. This system provides a by-pass switch so that the carb can be pre-primed by the electric pump before the engine is turned over. This assists with starting after extended periods of none use, although careful juggling with the (manual) choke and the odd squirt of EziStart is also sometimes
necessary in cold weather with my non-standard valve and ignition timing.

Here are some watchpoints;

1)  I mounted the electric fuel pump on the near side, on the "inside" of the rear wheel arch panel, i.e. nearest to the fuel tank outlet. It came with some rubber, allegedly, anti-vibration mounts which don't seem to do much to reduce the noise (which is probably amplified by the wooden panel). I put it there so that it was easy to get at, away from road spray from the rear wheels and close to the tank outlet. It was important to remember to run a separate earth connection from under one of the pump mounting screws to the chassis. I also used flexible hoses to and from the pump, which were joined to the original brass pipes by suitable hose clips.

2) &3) These points are related. The Miscellany article shows how the pump is effectively wired through an oil pressure light switch, which is apparently not a standard Morgan fitment. (My Crossflow engine already had one installed on the oil pressure gauge take-off point, just above the oil filter, and which I also connected to the red hazard warning light in the centre of the dash board.) Thus when the engine stalls (such as when upside down in a bush), the oil pressure goes to zero and the electrical supply to the pump is cut off.

To allow the engine to start with zero oil pressure, a relay is incorporated in the system which is joined to the starter solenoid and which overrides the (open) oil pressure light switch during cranking. Once the engine fires and the oil pressure builds up, the relay drops out and the system automatically reverts to "safety mode".

The key item for your problem, however, is the manual override, or priming, switch. This allows the carburretors to be pre-primed by the electric pump when the ignition is on, but without cranking the engine, by by-passing the oil pressure system. I used a spring loaded toggle switch mounted out of sight under the dashboard on a bracket fixed to the steering column. With the ignition switched on, the pump runs as long as this switch is pressed, and you can hear the fuel squirting into the float chambers. Its also very useful for pumping fuel out of the tank for winter storage etc.

The reason for fitting the electric pump was that the old mechanical Ford item was looking a bit iffy, and probably wouldn't supply enough fuel at high speeds It also ticks reassuringly whilst driving to let one know that all is well. (ha, ha).

WEBMASTER WATCHPOINT: If you fit an electrical pump, (often a great idea) PLEASE take the precaution of installing  simple inertia switch, mandatory with all vehicles that use electrical fuel pumps. This switch will stop the power to the fuel pump in the event of an impact. You do NOT want the pump to keep feeding the possible flames


The Bosch electronic distributor from any "Valencia" engined 1300cc Ford Escort (circa 1988) will fit directly into the 1600cc Xflow. You must use the clamp from the original distributor. Other mods to fit this unit are to change the ignition coil (Any CVH electronic 12v coil will do) and change the resistor wire from the ignition switch to the coil for standard wire, this then gives 12 volts at the coil. The three pin plug must also be obtained from the escort to hook up the distributor and provide the pulse lead for the tacho. For road use there is no need to play around with the advance curve its near enough. But if using a really wild cam you will need to blank off the vac advance because big cams tend to cause pulsing manifold which is a real pain at low revs (plays havoc with timing).

by Piet van 't Oostenm, Holland at the eMOG PUB

I recently modified my Kent engine to a high stage of tuning. This included mounting two double Webers  #40DCOE-151

A remarkable advantage to the installation was that no inner wing or scoop modification for the bonnet was necessary. The fitting was accomplished by grinding off the inlet manifold at both sides. At the engine side from rear to front 11mm to 7mm and at the carburettor side from bottom to top 10mm to 8mm.

This gave the trumpets the clearance at the bonnet. The result in case of my car is that the most critical trumpet, the one at the front,  is 15 mm inside of the inner wing and there is 30 mm between the bonnet and the trumpet now.  It is permissible for the carburettor(s) to be inclined upwards by 5 degrees from horizontal. At the right hand side (carburettor) the rubber engine prop is added with 8 mm.