Morgan UP-Grades for the Road

©By: Bob Nelson
dot_clear PO Box 353; Stanwood, WA 98292; (360) 387-3241

Orginially Written: Circa 2000

Last update: June 23,2009 - Reformatted page & corrected my email address

Our Morgan is a 1958 +4, 4 seater (ours since 1969). We use it well, 6 to 10,000 miles per year, including 3000 mile trips. Here are some of my changes.

I removed the original fan from the water pump. This has to be easier on the pump bearings. I installed and electric fan. (See thermostat). I installed a Delco Alternator, (a very easy fix). You can bore out your Lucas pulley to fit the alternator and keep the old style belt, larger size or use a smaller style alternator.

I run the original S-U carburetors, but cut holes in the bonnet and had extension tubes made for the carbs to extend through the bonnet. Each tube is a different length to exit the bonnet. I fastened K&N filters by using a rubber pipe coupling. A big difference in performance above 3000 RPMs, and looks good.

My old Lucas distributor was in need of a rebuild or replacement, so I replaced it with a Mallory Unilight (electronic) distributor, much smoother idle, a very good change.

(Note) My TR-3 engine has 87mm cylinders, a shaved head, 280 degree cam, and is balanced (headers are coming next).

I just installed a Toyota dual cylinder master cylinder for safety. Also to help brake fade coming down long hills in 90 degree weather, I had Datson aluminum finned drums recut to fit the Morgan. They look good painted red behind my white wire wheels. (Our Morgan is black). And with new up-graded brake linings our brake fade is minimal. (Described in Fred Sissons book).

The Triumph engine has a plug in the thermostat housing where the temperature sender would have been. I greased up a Honda fan thermostat switch and screwed it into the housing. It fits good, and turns the fan on at 200 degrees. I also have a by-pass switch. I wired my ignition light to the fan so I know when it's running.

Removing Rear Hub's from the Axles
You need a direct pull with a good slide hammer. I drilled holes in 2 old knock-off's so I can fasten the slide hammer to them and get a direct center pull. Next I couldn't remove the axle from the wheel bearing, so I removed the backing plates and took the axles, including the backing plates, to a machine shop. But they couldn't get the mess (backing plates) in the press, so we cut off the outer bearing race. This let the backing plates fall from the axles. Bearing and seals are available from any good bearing supply or parts house.

Your TR engine radiator hoses are a Ford hose, cut to length, wish I could tell you which one. (Anyone out there know?)

There is more to some of these repairs than I have mentioned here, such as shimming your rear bearings and the wiring from the fan and alternator. But they are all relatively easy jobs.

Fred Sisson was of great help. The drilled knock-offs were his idea. Fred's repair manual is a must!

Morgans were built to drive, and most of our friends really use theirs.

Call, write or email me if you have questions or comments.

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