©By: John T. Blair (WA4OHZ)
1133 Chatmoss Dr., Va. Beach, Va. 23464; (757) 495-8229
Originally Written: Circa 1998
Last update: June 17, 2009 Reformatted page and corrected my email address
(Note: While a lot of the procedure for pulling the engines on the
+4s and +8 will be the same, I'd like to see someone with a +4 and
someone with a +8 write an addendemun, to this article, on pulling
This article started live as email between
and Will Zehring. Then the
weekend of May 23 & 24th 1998 I decided to pull the engine and
transmission on my 65 4/4 to clean the engine compartment and repaint
the engine and transmission to get it ready for a National Antique
Automobile Club of America meet. As a result of that endivor, I've
updated this document based on what I found during this project.
The following procedure is based on using a good engine hoist not a
fixed block and tackle.
I started the job at 9:30 on Saturday morning and had the engine and
transmission out by 4:30.
I've found that it is easier to removing the engine and transmission as
2 separate units. While it is almost possible to do as one unit, the
engine and transmission must be put at an almost verticle angle.
- I found out (later in the procedure) that my host would not fit
between the 2 front wheels. Therefore, jack the car up and place
a jackstands at each corner.
- Remove the 2 front wheels. This will allow easier access to the
inner panels and the under side of the car.
- Disconnect the battery.
- Place a pan under the radiator, remove the radiator cap, and start
draining the water by turning the petcock on the lower part of the
- Take the bonnet (hood) off by removing the 2 screw that hold
the front of the hinge to the nose. Carefully pull the hing and
bonnet (hood) forward to free the bonnet from the rear hinge support.
- Take the cowl off,
- Remove the 3 nuts & bolts that hold the grill to the cowl.
Carefully slide the grill downward to disengage it from its clips.
- Remove the little platform at the bottom of the cowl but removing
the 4 nuts & bolts that hold it to the valances (inner fenders walls).
- Remove about 6 nuts & bolts from each side of the cowl that
attach it to the front fenders & valances.
- Remove the upper bar that holds the front fenders apart by removing the
nuts on the outboard side of the valances, turning one of the inner nuts
towards the middle of the car. Then the bar can be slid to that side
- Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses from the engine and the radiator.
- Remove the heater hoses (if you have a heater).
- Remove the radiator for/aft stay by removing the bolt that holds the
radiator to the stay, and the nut from the rear of the stay (it is
located inside the tool box).
- Remove the radiator by removing the 2 bolts that attach it to the ears
on the front subframe. (some would say not necessary, but sticking the
fan through it is embarrasing).
- Disconnect the following items:
- Exhaust header pipe from the exhaust manifold.
- Disconnect the main current feed wire to starter
- If you have a preengagement starter (solenoid mounted to the
starter) also remove the starting wire from the solenoid.
- Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump.
- Disconnect the electrical wires from the generator.
- Disconnect the electrical wire to the temp sending unit (if so equipted).
- Disconnect the oil line from the one shot oiler on the firewall.
- Disconnect the acclerator and choke cables from the carb.
- Remove the starter by removing the 2 bolts holding it to block and either drop
it down or lift out through the eng. compartment.
- Remove the generator by removing the 2 pivot bolt on the bottom of the gen.
and the 1 adjusting bolt on the top front face of the gen.
- Remove the fan by removing the 4 bolts that hold it to the water pump shaft.
- Depending on the engine and transmission installed and the expected length
of the first motion shaft, consider taking the water pump and pulleys off.
For a 4/4 1600, there is very little clearence between the bell housing and
the input shaft with the engine pulled right forward.
- Remove the nuts from the 4 bolts that hold the motor mounts to the support
- Remove the 6 or so bolts that attach the bell housing to the engine.
Remove the 3 smaller bolts across the bottom of the transmission.
- Place a floor jack under the bell housing to support the transmission.
(For some car specifications this isn't necessary as the gearbox is
supported at front and rear, for a Ford 2000E 4 speed it is!)
- Connect the engine to the hoist to the eng. I pulled the rocker arm cover, and
the 4 bolts that holds the rocker arm assembly to the head. I attached a chain
to the eng. by inserting a bolt through the chain and into the 1st and last
pedistal mount. This way the eng. was quit stable as all the weight was below
the mounting points.
- Take the strain on the hoist and dismantle the engine mounts. Ideally, with
two of you, pull the engine forward to clear the first motion shaft, then tilt
the nose up as you lift the engine to clear the car. (A good engine hoist on
wheels makes the second person a waste of good beer, although the extra pair
of eyes is useful - I dont' know if I agree with Jeremy on this. I'd just make
my helper bring his own beer!)
- Reassembly is the reverse, but remember to put the fan and or water pump back
on before you refix the radiator- it's much easier.
To remove the transmission on a Ford powered 4/4 you will have to
remove the engine first. The bolts that hold the transmission to the
bell housing are put in from inside the bellhousing, so you can't
seperate them until the transmssion is out of the car. The bellhousing
stop the transmission from being removed from inside the cockpit. The
only way to get it out, is through the engine compartment.
Reinstallation is just the reverse order!
- While it is not absolutely necessary, I removed the steering wheel. It sure makes
getting under the dash a lot easier.
- Remove the gear shift lever.
- Remove the seat back, pillows, and the seat bottoms.
- Remove the cover for the front transmission tunnel.
- Remove the shift lever by unscrewing the cap and lifting the lever out.
- Remove the rear transmission tunnel by removing about 7 to 10 wood screws that
attach it to the floor boards and the vertical rear cockpit wall.
- Remove the front transmission tunnel by removing the 8 nuts & bolts that
attach the front tunnel to the firewall (2 of these bolts hold the one shot
oiler in place). Also remove the 3 wood screws on each side of the tunnel
and the 4 lift a tap studs. Carefully lift the rear of the tunnel and pull it
backwards. It will fit over the emergency brake handle.
- Drain the transmission fluid. The drain hole is right over top of the
front cross brace. Consiquently, the transmission fluid will flow onto
this, before it falls into the pan. To reduce the mess made by draining
the transmission, get a thin piece of cardboard to make a "V" with.
Place it under the plug and remove the plug.
- Remove the speedometer fitting from the transmission.
- Connect the engine hoist to the bell housing. I used a piece of rope
wrapped around the bellhousing where the transmission is attached.
- Take a slight strain on the hoist and remove the floor jack.
- Disconnect the transmission mount from its mounting bracket.
- Remove the filler plug. The opening in the firewall wasn't wide enough
to allow the transmission out with the plug inplace.
- Have a helper pull the crain away from the car as you, inside the car
slowly guide/hold the rear and seperate the output shaft from the
drive shaft yoke. You will probably loose more transmission fluid.
So once the yoke is out of the transmission, lift the front of the
transmission and let it drain for a few more minutes.
- At this point I went under the car to help guide the tail of the
transmission out of the firewall and into the engine bay. At this time
you can either tie a piece of rope to the tail stock and to the crain
to try and hold the transmission level or pick up the tail stock and
push the crain away from the car.
Enjoy your Morgan
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