1. In any adjustment of the spring, you MUST make sure that;

a. the armature centre pointer (you can just see a tiny little dot at the end) is precisely pointed at the bottom left corner of the tiny shaded rectangle you see at the arrow "A" . If it is not, you can adjust
the angle of the armature, by loosening the screw indicated at "B" You will notice that the screw does not enter a hole but rather an wide slot allowing for this adjustment.

b. You should place the idle air bypass screw (not shown) about 1/2 way down in adjustment. If the adjustment screw cannot be turned or has been cross-threaded..do not buy the unit.

2. Though it would seem that the large toothed wheel adjustment is simple, you must consider that there are 50 teeth in its 360 degrees and the wheel can turn completely about 4-5 times (by my bad memory) ..creating 200-250 possible air/fuel combinations. Each tooth, (within a range the car will start at all)  represents a 1% CO2 adjustment! You CANNOT adjust the AFM without a CO2 analyzer. (Gunsen makes the cheapest home version..about 100 GBP). You can get what seems a smooth idle without..and then find under load and normal speed that you have caused some prejudice to the engine by running far too lean..or, less seriously, far too rich).

The best procedure is to turn the adjustment wheel until the spring (with in the black wheel) looks pproximately like the picture below and try to start the car. If it doesn't start, loosen the spring a bit. (If your engine pulses...the spring is too loose).

Once started, turn the spring incrementally until your CO2 analyzer reads 2%. You can then refine the idle mixture later, after you close up, by using the idle air bypass valve.

3. The arrow "C" point to the fuel pump contact...a weak point on the L-Jetronic. In a eMog survey two years ago, we discovered that 8 of 12 of them here had failed and been bypassed. In my experience, it is the single most oft-asked thing that stumps the Agents on these flapper Morgan. The innards of the L-Jetronic are delicate.... use the wrong sealant and the fumes corrode the contacts and they fail. Clean with alcohol and air before resealing.

Additionally, the fuel pump contact is a tiny wire going to a red relay-like affair called the "steering module" and then on to the fuel pump relay with a more robust wire. Forget it. Have your fuel pump
function with the ignition interrupted by an inertia switch..(I use one from a Jag). This is far more reliable, simplifies the standard system and acts as an ignition cut off..so your insurance company will pay for it AND reduce your premiums. (smile)

Lorne