Difficulty in fitting brake lines to the master is due
to the ends of the steel flairs having been squashed by overtightening.
Girling calls for a tightening torque of 15 inch lbs. The tube nuts
should be able to
be easily threaded all the way into the master cylinder
ports by fingers alone.
N.B. I replaced my master cylinder with a dual line arrangement. I used 90 degree fittings with pipe threads into the M/C and have been told that it is a no-no because they cannot be trusted not to leak. Proof of the pudding is that one of them does leak. In looking at John Shealey's car at MOG 30 I noticed that he had banjo fittings on the M/C and he said I could get them at a truck supply house. Having tolerated the slight leak throughout a weekend of vingtage racing I now plan to do something proper to correct it. The banjos worked for John.
For the person who is concerned about what to put under
the aluminum straps on the rear deck of that freshly rebuilt Moggie the
suggestion is: marine bedding compound. It is a waterproof putty-like material
that is meant to be applied under items to be screwed down to the deck
of a boat. It is semi-solid, and oozes into nooks and crannies under the
cleat, stanchion, etc to be affixed, and then hardens somewhat, but
never becomes brittle. It keeps water, both salt and fresh, out,
perventing rust and dry rot, and would probably work quite well on
a Morgan.
Lubricate the lug nuts with "never seize" and torque them
to 40 foot pounds. Because the end of the studs going into the wheel
hub are smaller than the end that goes through the wheel, the torque that
the
stud can safely take is limited by the inner end.
Forty lbs.. of torque is plenty to hold the wheel securely, 70 or 80 is
almost surely guaranteed to either damage the threads of the nuts or studs
or loosen the studs from the hubs.This information applies the all Morgans
up to 1968, not necessarily to +8s and later other models. For further
information, please check torque specifications for different wheel
nuts HERE.
And don't forget, "to paint the leaf springs with motor oil" to keep them lubricated. That may sound a little messy. Just jack up the car to relax the springs and then squirt in chain lube. Lubricating the springs improves the ride of the car. It also increases the load on the shocks ( or as they are more accurately called dampers). Since the friction between the leaves has a damping effect on the motion or the springs, when you remove this friction you have lost some damping action. The shock's damping action is motion sensitive. This means that the greater the bump or movement the more resistence the shock should offer. This will occurr if the shocks are set up and are operating properly. With the springs lubricated the result should be a smoother ride and better resistance to "bottoming" the suspension on big bumps.
I am at the stage of the replacing the fuel tank rear
axle and suspension back to where it came on my 1980 4/4 4 Seater.
At the shackles at each end of the spring there is a long bolt several
large washers and two spacers one longer than the other. My problem is
in which order do they go.
Mike
I have a Morgan response for you! No two Morgans are alike
and the size of these spacers and their positioning varies from car to
car. Therefore you have some fiddling to do to find out what goes where
on
YOUR car. The keys are to assure yourself that;
1. The leaf springs are parallel to the frame.
2. You have a sufficient amount of bolt thread for the nuts.
And that is all there is to it. Good luck!
Lorne Goldman