Fuel Tank Problem
by TrmpetDave

There is a problem with some Morgan gas tanks. The two baffles which run fore and aft dividing the tank roughly in thirds, come unsoldered from the inside of the tank and can fall to the bottom where they slide around and sometimes interfere with the correct functioning of the fuel gauge.

To repair this, you can drill 8 holes through the sides of the tank so that the baffles can be pop riveted into place securely and then the steel pop rivets are silver soldered over to plug the holes.

The original mounting, solid on good wood boards was an excellent solution.  The leaks are caused by either the boards coming adrift from the chassis, or the tank itself coming loose from the boards and moving around then stressing the soldered joints. The two wooden boards are fastened together by two metal straps that are screwed into the wood. Then the boards are fastened to the fuel tank by four bolts that pass through the mounting brackets that are soldered to the ends of the tank. Then this whole rigid assembly is attached to the frame by THREE screws ONLY. There is a good reason for that. THREE POINTS DETERMINE A PLANE. With the board platform attached in this manner, the boards and the tank form one unit that is insulated form any flexing of the frame, i.e..  the frame can move around but the tank will not be "bent" or twisted.

Removing a Morgan Fuel Tank

Removing a Morgan gas tank is easier than it looks, at least with the wood supported models. (Morgan had a brief try at metal supports which rusted away and then switched back to the trusty wooden planks.)

Detach the exterior fuel cap(s) by loosening the hose clamps accessible from the underside of the rear deck. Detach the fuel lines and sending unit. Then simply jack the car up and slide the supporting boards around after removing the appropriate securing bolts. You should be able to raise the tank enough to slide one board under the other and get the boards out. (You may have problems removing the bolts but at worst they are easily replaced.) With the boards out the tank will drop out out the bottom.

Refurbishing and Resealing a Morgan Fuel Tank
by Harald Sakshaug on eMOG

There are two cardinal rules:

First: NEVER and I repeat NEVER use your lighter to check if there is gas in the tank!

Second: NEVER and I repeat NEVER use anything else which is warmer than your hand. (which excludes soldering irons, torches and axle grinders) on your tank either!

Now, remove the tank (click here) and buy a new one, or use another excellent stuff called TANK SEALER.  You will need to buy a kit with several bottles. First bottle is to degrease the tank. (It is some solvent of some kind mixed with water and old bolts and nuts where you shake the tank to get it clean)

The second bottle is to apply a rust proofing layer. (sulphoric acid I think).

Third bottle is a strong water mixing alcohol which evaporates quite fast to remove all the water from your tank.

Fourth bottle is a rubber mixture to pour in the tank while you rotate it, making a layer of (gasoline proof) rubber inside your tank.

It works like a dream and is not expensive. I use it on my motorbike tanks, to avoid welding to them (it destroys the chrome and IS dangerous!) if they are rusty. Repainting a car tank is probably not as cruical to get a nice result, but nevertheless.

I have used my tanks in 10 years without any problems after such a treatment.

Several brands available: Click

http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm

Various number of bottles and prices. I used a local variant bought here in Norway.

Harald Sakshaug
 

ENGINE COMPRESSION
by Lorne Goldman

"Low compression is evidence of poorly sealed combustions chambers. Generally, compression pressures which are relatively even, but below acceptable specifications indicate worn piston rings and/or cylinder walls. Low, but erratic values tend to indicate valve leakage. Dramatic differences, such as acceptable values in some cylinders and very low values in one or two cylinders are the sign of a localized failure, probably of the head gasket. It's time to get your compression gauge in hand. The following are the steps to take to get correct readings.

1. Make sure the battery is fully charged. A battery with a low charge will give low compression readings because of reduced cranking speeds.

2. Warm the engine to operating temperature to produce metal expansion and to reduce oil drag.  A cold engine will give low readings.

3. After the engine is warm shut it off and loosen the spark plugs one turn. Restart the engine at a fast idle for about 5 seconds. This removes carbon debris from around the spark plug. This will keep small particles of carbon from being blown into the compression gauge.

4. Shut the engine off and remove the spark plugs noting which came from which cylinder. A Z-car engine will run with a plug or two firing at the wrong time. It'll even accelerate and go around the block a time or two. Don't ask how I know.

5. Block the throttle open.

6. In turn, carefully insert the compression gauge in each cylinder and with the starter, turn the engine over through five compression strokes.

7. Make a note of the readings from each cylinder. What was the pattern? Does the gauge pump up fast? Is the max reading obtained after five strokes? (Very important)

8. On all low readings, retake and if it is still low, inject 30 weight oil into the combustion chamber and retest.

9. Check the spark plugs from the cylinders with abnormally low or high readings. look for carbon buildup or oil deposits.

10. Replace the spark plugs and torque them to the recommended specs.

Once you've got the readings, it's time to evaluate them to determine just what the future of your engine is going to be.

If the gauge pumps up slowly, such as 30, 50, 70, 90, etc. to an almost normal reading, you probably have ring problems. A general rule is that a maximum reading should occur after two strokes. If oil is added to a low reading and the pressure improves, this will confirm worn rings. A persistent low reading generally indicates valve problems.

Oil lost through worn valve guides will not be determined through compression testing. Low readings can also be caused by a warped head and occasionally, two cylinders will have very low compression which can be the result of a blown head gasket. It is important to remember that the addition of oil to the combustion chamber will not improve the compression readings if your engine has burned, warped or stuck valves. High compression readings can be the result of carbon buildup or head surfacing.

Generally, if the variation between the cylinders is 10 to 15 lbs., this is acceptable, but always check the specs in the manual. It would seem that equal pressure is necessary to have smooth running engine, but it's been found that with only 70% of normal pressure is enough for running smoothly. Also, manufacturers specs usually list a bottom line acceptable pressure and a good engine will usually read 20 to 30 psi over the acceptable readings.

If you find that your engine has good compression, it may be time to go back over your tune-up steps. On the other hand, if you've found low compression readings OVERALL, it's probably time to have that 200,000 mile engine rebuilt.

AN Hose Diameters

Available Hose Sizes
-2   -3   -4   -5   -6   -8   -10   -12   -16   -20

Hose Size is the measurement of the Inner Diameter of the hose measured in units of 1/16th of an inch.

Examples:
a -2 hose has an I.D. of 1/8" [306 only]
a -3 hose has an I.D. of 3/16"
a -4 hose has an I.D. of 1/4"
a -5 hose has an I.D. of 5/16"
a -6 hose has an I.D. of 3/8"
a -8 hose has an I.D. of 1/2"
a -10 hose has an I.D. of 5/8"
a -12 hose has an I.D. of 3/4"
a -16 hose has an I.D. of 1"
a -20 hose has an I.D. of 1 1/4"
 
 

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