The average DIY'er can try this project with basic workshop tools for a cost of about $30.00.. Four pieces of 1 1/16th X 5/6" clear pine are soaked in water, formed into circles and glued to the steel wheel frame. This size of wood strip is used because it is a standard size available at any wood supply store or lumber yard. The circumference of the steering wheel is approximately four feet, but the pine strips should be at least six feet long, so that a good radius can be formed into each piece. A seven inch piece of 1.5 inch A.B.S. drain pipe, capped at one end and filled with water can be used to soak the wood strips. With only one drying form, the project should take about seven to ten days.
The old covering of the steering wheel is cut away using a sharp knife. The wheel rim should be wire brushed and sanded to remove any rust and to provide a brushed surface to which the glue can adhere. Keep a piece of the the old covering rubber because it will help provide a profile pattern when you shape the woodgrain wheel.
Using
2 pieces of 3/4 inch plywood, cut two circular pieces approximately 14"
in diameter (for a 14 inch wheel, or make it larger or smaller to match
the original diameter). These two pieces are screwed together with a 1/2
inch spacer between them and fastened to a sturdy base. These pieces will
provide the drying pattern for the wood strips. Two pieces of scrap 2"
x 4" lumber can be used to hold the ends of the wood strip in place while
it is drying. The picture shows a wood strip being wrapped around the drying
form. The wood strip had been left in the water tube for about three days.
and should be left on the drying form for another three days.
The picture shows the wood strip
after it has dried on the form. The picture also shows why it is important
to use a strip that is longer than required. It is next to impossible to
form a
good radius at the ends of the
strip. A lot of fitting is required as the wood strip is cut to the proper
length. Start by cutting the piece too long and carefully trim it to the
proper length. Three-hour epoxy is the best glue to use. Nonetheless, leave
the clamps in place for at least twelve hours. Borrow as many clamps as
you can from your friends and neighbors.
As the remaining pieces come off the drying form, they can be added to the wheel. A good grade of wood glue can be used to hold them in place. Wood glue is best because it can be sanded and stained without detracting from the finished appearance of the wheel. Use small wooden blocks with the clamps to protect the outside wood strips from clamp marks.
This photograph shows all four pieces glued to the frame. Now the real work starts. Using a rasp, shape the wood to a profile that is similar to the cover that was originally on the wheel. Alternatrively, shape the wqoiod to the grip you prefer for you hand but from a point of view of aethestics, extra bulk should be shaped into the depth rather than the width of the rim. After the wheel is shaped, finish the wheel with sandpaper. Start with a 100 grit paper and finally work up to a 400 grit paper.
Once
the sanding is complete, coat the wood with 50-50 mixture of boiled linseed
oil and turpentine. Two or three coats should be applied. After each
coat, rub the oil mixture into the wood with a dry clean cloth.. This step
required so that any subsequent application of stain can be controlled.
Apply the stain to the wheel until the desired finish is obtained. Let
this finish dry for a day or two before finishing with two or three coats
of clear gloss lacquer. The only thing left to do is to install the wheel
on your car and wait for the compliments.
This job could be done easily with any tattered steering wheel with an appropriate frame you find at an autojumble or junk yard. You can even have a frame cut out of stainless steel at a metalwork shop. The advantage of this is that you will be able to drive your car with your old steering wheel or temporarily exchange it with the spare wheel so you can keep on driving during the process.