Many drivers have difficulties quickly and comfortably adjusting to the other side of the road. Other drivers have the same trouble adjusting to having the steering on the opposite side of the car. I am one of the lucky ones being, for some reason, equally comfortable on both sides of the road and either side of the car. This may be a vestigial remain of my driving throughout my debauched youth. When on the "wrong" side now, I am only irked that I have to rely on the passenger to pass large vehicles.

Steering wheel placement also effects the local market prices for imported vehicles or even excludes "wrong side" collector cars from importation completely. (i.e. Canada) This is sad as Morgan residuals vary muchly from country to country and it would be better for all of us if they did not. For example, Morgan prices in the UK (RHD) have traditionally been much lower than the neighboring European (LHD) market, even with the almost costless importation situation between most Euro nations. We also live in times of volatile currency fluctuations where buying in another country can be very advantageous. As a rule, LHD cars sell at a discount in RHD areas and the reverse is true as well.

All this should create a large demand for conversions. However, it has not and I think that this may be due to the lack of knowledge of what is involved in coverting each model, year, and type and the often exorbitant prices of those who do this professionally. Yet, generally speaking the more hand skills used in making a car, the easier it is to alter it and Morgan makes cars for both driving regimes.. The bottom line is that there is often a significant hidden value to be released by a Morgan conversions. However, you have to know which Morgans are ideal subjects and which Morgans are not. And then you have to go about it properly. I have even seen it done by amateur first-timers without undue stress or and at a very attractive cost.

Newer cars offer less fertile soil for conversions. Being more assembled than bespoke now, the original components cannot be as easily transformed and more new replacements parts will be required. Additionally, some older Morgans carry either LHD or RHD versions of components that can no longer be sourced. These cars are not susceptible to a conversion. Research is necessary fromm someone very familar with the target car. Buyers beware.

The conversion difficulty will also depend on how pristine a job one wants or the other improvements one wants to do at the same time.  For example, one can retain the bulkhead and simply patch over its old steering configuration or one can replace it completely.

The easiest target I personally know of is a Jack Knight R&P Plus 8.  The JK steering rack can themselves be converted from one side to the other without undue cost..and that represents are saving of $1500 USD.

By way of an example, let's look, roughly, at what is needed for the conversion one of these cars.

1. Dash A new one is required for all conversions or, one can try to use the old one by flipping it over and finishing its the former backside. Or the flipped dash can be used a template for a new one..get creative. Or one can hope to find one for your year at the Morgan Motor Company, Or go for the epitome of elegance with a MK-Holtztechnik dash from Germany. http://www.mk-holztechnik.de/englisch/morgan-accessories/index.html The cost will be from 0 to $1400.

2. Bulkhead It must be modified or replaced. The Morgan Company now sells the newer stainless steel bulkheads and they may make one for your year. However, local replacement or modification is simple, cheaper and faster.  Cost will be from $50 to $500 unless you do it yourself.

3. Valences (inner wings) Must modified a bit or replaced. Unless your valences are rotted,  I recommend modification. Cost will be $50 to $150 unless you do it yourself.

4. JK Steering rack. Must be converted from one side to the other. This can be done by a confident amateur or a local machinist. $100

5. Headlights  These must be converted from alignment from one side to the other. Some lamps are convertible, some are not.

The labor involved (from memory) is to:

1. remove the instruments from the old dash. .5 hours

2. remove the steering wheel and disconnect the column wiring and detach the under-dash column supports .4 hours

3. disconnect the wiring, cables and oil hose (if any) from the instruments and dash lights .75 hours

4. remove the dash .1 hours

5. remove the tie-rods and then the steering R&P .5 hours

6. disconnect the column at the valence. .25 hours

7. Disconnect the column at the bulkhead. .25 hours

8. You now decide whether you want to modify or replace the bulkhead. And if you wish to do it in situ or off the car. remember to swap the column supports on the cabin side. 3 hours

9.  You now decide whether you want to modify or replace the valences. And if you wish to do them in situ or off the car. 1 hour or 3 hours

10. Convert the JK R&P 1 hour

11. Reinstall the steering column and tie-rods 1 hour

12. Swap the instruments to the new dash 1 hours

13. Fit the new dash and connect it  2 hour

14. Fit the column in the cabin  2 hour

15. Fit the column from bulkhead to steering rack through the valence. 1.5 hours

16. Fit your steering wheel. .5 hours

17. Have your steering aligned. .5 hours

18. Have your headlights converted or replaced. 1 hour

Total: Approximately 20 hours.

So, with everything you need at hand, These year Plus 8 conversions will cost you from $200 to $2000 in parts (depending on the dash choice) and 14 hours of your time or that of a mechanic, assuming either of you can weld. Let's price the mechanic at $70/hour. That makes this conversion price $1400-3150 USD or 1000 to 2000 pounds.

Considering the wild differences in Plus 8 prices in RHD versus LHD, a successful effort is well worth it.

Sould a reader have corrections or additions they wish to share. Be write me. lg at gomog.com