Dim Dip Stalk Failure
by Lorne Goldman

The newer stalks are eventually failing (LUCAS SQB119 1976-1997) because they can't take  the draw shock from flipping from high to low beam, especially with the more powerful trick bulbs many if us are using. To resolve this, I figured I would isolate the stalk switch from impact of the draw the lights created by installing relays between the headlamps high and headlamps low.

dimdipprotection I can place the relays in the right wires anywhere between the stalk and the headlamps. It might as well be the most  convenient placement. The wires split from two to four at the fusebox so between the stalk and the fusebox is easiest. The stalk used (1977-1997) helps as its loom is very long. So I chose to place the relays right under the dash not far from the stalk. Your target wires are Blue with a Red tracer and Blue with a white tracer. Unravel the tape on the stalk loom and you will find them.

Onto the wiring. You will have to bear with me on this. When I do something to my Morgan, I spend the extra time to do so in a fashion that I can easily reverse it..especially when I wire something into an existing system. That will produce a little more work here but will leave you capable of moving everything to the original wiring in a minute.

Let's start with the relays. There are many types of relays. In this case, the world has made life simple for us. You need what the auto stores sells as "headlamp" relays. (smile) Two of them. They look like standard little black plastic box relays. Now make some little looms. This will be dictated by what you have and what you need.

1. Each relay will require battery power to the blade labeled 30 amp on the relays. Make a loom. It will take the battery power that is already connected into to your light switch. (The bigger brown wire.) This loom will have a four wires, a male connector going in three wires with females connectors. (I solder the junction and shrink cover it.) Th male connector will be fitted to the pre-existing power wire into the main light switch. One of the females will go back on the main light switch. The other females will go into the 30 amp position on each relay.

N.B. Make sure that your male and female connectors match up.

 2. Now make another little loom of three as robust wires. A circlet connector with an id suitable to the bolt you have chosen for a  ground/earth source. The ends of the other two wires will be fitted with  females connectors. Attach these to the ground entry on the relays.

3. Now to the wires from the stalk. Create sufficient unravel enough tape to free wire on the blue/red and blue/white sufficient to easily to reach the place you are going to fit or tie warp your relays nearby Cut the wires at this point. Strip each side and place a female connector on one side and a male connector on the other. Connect the female sides to position 86 on the relays. 
Make two more little looms. Simply use two wires with female connectors at both ends.  Attach one end of each the the male connector you laced on the original  loom wire and the other end into position 87 on the corresponding relay. Voila! If I understand it correctly, the impacts of headlights on off or dim dipping now do not reach the stalk. If you want to get fancy, you  can place an inline 5 amp fuse in the blue wire (no tracer) that goes  into the stalk. If you want to switch (pun!) back, the use and placement of the female and male connectors will make that a simple plug and play.

For the more ambitious amongst us, here are some pictures I found on the net a few years ago that can result in a repair.
This switch is from a UK 1973 model.

Dip Switch from the MGB group 
Showing the switch in the 'main beam' position, 'dip' and 'flash' contacts both open. Click to increase image size. 
Showing the switch in the 'dip beam' position, 'main' and 'flash' contacts open.
Showing the switch in the 'flash' position, dipped beam contact still closed (but the spring contact pushed further than before) 'main' contact still open.
Showing the switch in the 'dip beam' position with the contacts labelled as to which colour wire goes where.
A general view showing the plastic springs (and indicator/turn-signal auto-cancel fingers) on the switch body. The 'Dip'/'Main' snap-action spring gives the positive switching action between dip and main positions. The 'Flash' spring gives a positive return to 'Dip' from 'Flash'.
Switch in the 'main beam' position, the flasher return spring clear of the switch body.
Switch in the 'dipped beam' position, the flasher return spring just touching the switch body.
Switch in the 'flash' position, the flasher return and dip/main snap-action springs under tension.




INERTIA SWITCH
by Lorne Goldman

There are not many things that can cause a quick and inexplicable failure of the car to run. After all, combustion only requires two things you provide, a spark and fuel. Ergo, one has to be missing. Forgive me if I do not completely trust the information you were told about the spark plugs.


So the first question that should be asked is whether there is a device that could shut off the fuel yet leave the rest of the electricity working? YES! It is called an inertia switch. It is a very important safety feature. It is installed on the wire that powers the fuel pump. It has a little loose ball inside that, if jostled too much, pushes a spring which cuts the power to the fuel pump. That switch is most often wired in after the fuel pump relay.  
The inertia switch can also fail, but very rarely. I  I live at the end of a rough road so I put mine near me so I can close the switch before the car stops.

To test it, the problem is merely discovering where in your car the MMC put your switch. It is normally inside the engine bay on the bulkhead. However, some people install theirs at the rear near the fuel tank. It not hard to find. It is a plastic device with a big rubber button on top.

Push the button down (in). Did you feel a click? Does your pump now run?


These switches are an excellent safety feature for anyone using an electric fuel pump. They are easy to install anywhere on the fuel line. They can be purchased inexpensively off ebay in any country.