(THE
GUESS AT THE AERO 8 FROM MAY OF 1999)
February29,
2000 THE GENEVA SHOW: (IMAGES OF THE NEW
MORGAN AERO 8)
A
Pictorial Comparison of the Aero 8 and Other Models
The
AERO 8 in a PLUS 8 Body
Images
of Libra's Aero at Silverstone (September 2001)
THE AERO LINE
TECH, ISSUES & FIXES
(Please send
in your Aero info of interest)
BODY
Bonnet Latches
Doors
Front End & Light Corrosion
Front mesh
Front Splitter
RadShape
BRAKES
ELECTRICS
Battery Replacement
Windows Will Not Close
ENGINE
Car Will Not Start I
Car Will Not Start II
Loss of Engine Power
Stalling When Warm
EXHAUST
EXTERIOR
Hard Tops
Light Corrosion
Rear Windows Fall Off (Aeromax)
Rear Windows Open in Rain
Super-Form
Aluminum
Wheel Arch Liner Detaches
Wheel Rims Badly Pitted and Damaged
INTERIOR
STEERING
Power Steering Fails (Series I)
Battery Replacement (Series I)
The original Red Flash 750 battery, used on Aeros and Plus 8s, has proved to be a problem for many. It is a small battery supplied under many names and originally designed and still supplied from the US for a Harley motorcycle. The wisest course would be to install a standard battery and many have done so. However, should you wish to remain with the same dimension battery, it is also available under the brand name Odyssey in all countries. Simply give the battery dealer the dimensions of your battery. http://www.odysseybatteriesonline.co.uk/ or http://www.tayna.co.uk/catalog/73/0/Motorcycle-Batteries-Odyssey-Batteries-page1.html
Regularly examine and confirm the bonnet's latches. On occasion, some may not secure properly which can result in the bonnet flying up at high speed. Check them by the knob firmly to their closed position. If they can still detach, then they must be adjusted carefully to confirm full function. For those wanting greater assurance, a racers bonnet pin catch system can be retrofitted.
Thus far, reports on this issue are from Series I owners.
The routing of the brake lines from the brake master cylinder makes them
suceptible heat from the exhaust and catalytic converters. The lines can
be damaged/melt and breached. This leads to deteriorating and/or total
brake loss unless addressed.
A more detailed report and suggested fix is expected.
Car doesn't start. At first this may occur only when driven and stopped hot. It could be that the Immobilizer is locked on. This may be caused by this unit touching the bottom of the fuse box. After the car is stopped, the resultant heat causes immobilizer malfunction and damage. The car may start working again once it cools sufficiently. However, the best solution is to go to an Aero dealer and have a new Immobilizer put in and heat wrap it. A new immobilizer will require new keys.
Car doesn't start when warm. Just turns without catching. You may find if you turn the ignition key on and off 3-4 times in succession in succession, it will reboots the engine's management/ignition system and the engine will then start again.
Aero doors, especially the earlier versions, can be misaligned. On the Aero ver. I, doors are constructed in two sections The doors on the Mk1 are built from 2 major sections. The lower door and the window frame. Unfortunately these are not always stable in relation to each other and can result in the top of the window frame pulling away from the “A” pillar. This is easily fixed but often mis-adjustment of the lower door can result in the front of the door fouling the lower “A” pillar section and eventually rubbing through the paint.
The side door glass is VERY EASY to break. The windows are a laminate of non-safety glass with a heating wire in between – try looking through them in the light and you will see the filaments. Unfortunately this makes them particularly weak and slamming the door or shutting firmly (Especially with the window part open – Not fully up or fully down) can easily result in a cracked side pane. These are £600 each!! Assuming you can find one. Many have been swapped for non heated versions and can occasionally be odd side to side.
The front indicator lights suffer from corrosion around the light fixing bolts. Unfortunately this is a a characteristic of Aeros and evidences electrolytic corrosion. It is usually found found round the edges of the front splitter & lower grill section and where the wings bolt on. Galvanized steel bolts were used with aluminium wings and that creates the reaction. If caught early, it can be repaired but this will become more difficult as time goes one and corrosion deepens.
The intake mesh on early Aero versions was often fitted under too much stress. In time the stress dislodges and/or loosens the mesh brackets and it becomes loose.
The Aero front splitter is a easy target for road debris, causing scratches and multiple stone chips. This can be prevented with clear plastic adhesive covering such as Armor-Guard. Many owners prefer to leave the splitter has not been protected and that will necessitate regular repainting. I know f an owner, who has had a polished stainless cover made for the splitter and this will avoid the normal pitting.
Experiences of those ordering retro-fit hard tops have not been good. There are numerous reports of a gap between the front edge of the top and the windscreen that allows incoming water to drip on lap or knees. It is advisable to choose this option when buying the car new or deliver the car to the Company to have them fit it. One can also try to fit window molding rubber.
The heater drain hose may have come loose. You can check by lying across the seats and looking forward along the gearbox cover. You should espy a small hose that goes from the back of cabin heater and through the bulkhead. This should be attached to the back of the heater and is the conduit for the draining moisture. If it is loose, the heater/AC will drain into the car. Re-attach the hose to the hose fitting at the back of the heater and secure it in place with a jubilee clip.
The earlier Aeros use mild steel fasteners to screw the indicator lights to the aluminum wings. This sets up an electrolytic reaction that corrodes the lights and/or the fittings in question..which can aslo effect light function. Fittings and lights should be remioved, carefully cleaned and replaced with alunimum fashteners or coated with a anti-corrosion product..
Engine restricts RPM, and the car will not go beyond modest speed (30-40 mph).
The automobile management system believes it has detected a fault serious enough to revert to "Limp-Home-Mode" for the car or driver's protection. In this case, the ABS Brakes are sending a signal to the computer forcing the car into a safe mode due to perceived failure of the brake system. This can be cured by having the Aero dealer check the brakes thoroughly and if they check out, replace of the ABS sensors.
Power Steering Fails (Series I)
The power steering pumps are commonly known to fail on the Aero Series I and leave the driver suddenly without power assisted steering. The cure is a retrofit of the electric steering from the Aero Series II. The MMC has a modification kit to fit the newer pump at a cost of 320£.
All Aeros (Series II, III & IV) equipped with side exhaust have brackets can shear. The Company can replaced these with stronger brackets which should fix the issue. It is suggested that you confirm whether you have the original brackets and if so, warn your Aero dealer and have them replaced at your next service. N.B. It is also wise to warn passengers of the dangers of touching the side pipes. Burns have happened.
The car keeps stalling at idle though starting, power
and performance otherwise unaffected whether hot or cold. .
This normally indicates a defective Mass Air Sensor.
See Aero dealer for replacement..
The wheel arch liner can detach being held only by the bonder and the side lamp fitting. Unless addressed, the liner it will foul the exhaust.
Wheel Rims Badly Pitted and Damaged
Aero I rims were matched with tyres that allow the rim to extend beyond the tyre. This quickly ruins (sidewalk scuffing) the edges of the rims. There are two options. One can buy replacements (550£) or have the rims periodically repaired and refurbished by one of the many UK shops that specialize in this task. There are even shops that can do magnesium rims. Expect to pay between 30-45£ a rim.
Usually this means one must reset the window computer. Lower the window on the switch until it reaches the bottom and then raise the window right to the top and hold it there in the switch "up" position for approximately for 7 seconds. The window should automatically reset. If this does not work, take the car to your nearest Aero dealer. N.B. If you disconnect the battery or press the isolator button under the bonnet the window computer will loose their setting again.
One opens the rear windows with the remote control and they end up on the ground, often causing some body damage. The problem is that the adhesive glue used. Where there is metal to glass contact, the glue can heat up sufficiently to exceed the glue supplier's recommended maximum temperature. The cars should be checked with a Aero dealer and have the windows retruned to the Factory to have the glue upgraded
The rear glass can also open under heavy rain.